The Breithorn from the Klein Matterhorn seen
|location||Canton of Valais , Switzerland / Aosta Valley , Italy|
|Dominance||4.03 km → Castor|
|Notch height||436 m ↓ Schwarztor|
|Coordinates , ( CH )|
|First ascent||1813 by Henry Maynard , Joseph-Marie Couttet , Jean Gras , Jean-Baptiste Erin and Jean-Jacques Erin|
|Normal way||Glaciated alpine tour|
The Breithorn is a five-peaks, west to east running, heavily glaciated mountain ridge in the Valais Alps . The highest point of the ridge and at the same time the easiest four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps is the west summit (main summit, Breithorn Occidentale, ). Further to the east follow the middle summit (Breithorn Centrale, ) and the Breithorn twins, consisting of the east summit (western twin, Breithorn Orientale, ) and the gendarme (eastern twin, Quota, ). The Breithornkamm ends in the east with the Schwarzfluh (Roccia Nera, ).
Between Klein Matterhorn and Breithorn there is the Breithorn Pass ( ) and the Breithorn plateau ( ), which extends over the highest ski slope in Europe towards Gobba di Rollin ( ) . Between the west and middle peaks lies the saddle (Sella, ), between the middle and east peaks the Selle (Fenestra del Breithorn, ) and the Schwarztor (Porta Nera, ) between Roccia Nera (Schwarzfluh) and Pollux (Polluce). There is also the Bivac Rossi e Volante CAI ( ) at Roccia Nera . The main Alpine ridge and the border between Valais and the autonomous region of Aosta run over the Breithorn .
Because of the Klein Matterhorn leading cable car is climbed often the technically undemanding main summit. The normal route leads from the south-southwest first over the firn of the Breithorn plateau and later up a 35 degree steep slope. The ascent takes between one and a half and three hours. The descent on skis or snowboards from the main summit is easy for experienced riders. Despite the good development, it is a high-alpine tour that requires the appropriate equipment and experience.high
As an alternative, you can also climb the west summit from the east over a narrow ridge , which is a very easy traversal of the highest summit of the Breithorn. The starting point of the ridge is the notch between the west and middle summit on the saddle (Sella ), from where you can also climb the middle summit over the further course of the ridge. Up to the central summit, the Breithorn consists only of ice and snow to the west, combined with rock to the east. The tour from the east to the west summit is also known as the half-wide horn traversing with climbing up to level IV .
- Helmut Dumler, Willi P. Burkhardt: Four-thousanders in the Alps. 12th, updated edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2001, ISBN 3-7633-7427-2 .
- Breithoru-Liit. In: The large Zermatt Lexicon. zermattportal.de - Schmellenkamp Communications, accessed on February 14, 2013 .