Diran
| Diran | ||
|---|---|---|
 Northwest face of Diran as seen from Tagafari Base Camp |
||
| height | 7266 m | |
| location | Gilgit-Baltistan ( Pakistan ) | |
| Mountains | Rakaposhi Haramosh Mountains ( Karakoram ) | |
| Dominance | 15.64 km → Rakaposhi | |
| Notch height | 1325 m ↓ ( 5941 m ) | |
| Coordinates | 36 ° 7 '20 " N , 74 ° 39' 38" E | |
|
||
| First ascent | August 17, 1968 by Rainer Göschl , Rudolph Pischinger and Hanns Schell | |
| Normal way | Northwest Face, West Ridge | |
The Diran , formerly also called Minapin , is a 7266 m high mountain in the Pakistani Karakoram Mountains . It belongs to the mountain range of the Rakaposhi Haramosh Mountains and is located about 15 kilometers east of the Rakaposhi . The Minapa Glacier stretches along its northwest flank .
Ascent history
The first ascent took place in 1968 by the Austrian trio Rainer Göschl , Rudolph Pischinger and Hanns Schell . They reached the summit on August 17th via the northwest face and the west ridge, a route that had previously been tried in vain by four other expeditions: in 1959, a German Karakoram expedition led by Hans Jochen Schneider had failed. Erwin Stocker and his local helper were only a few hundred meters below the summit than they had to turn back.
The second ascent of the mountain ended in tragedy: The Spaniards Arturo Romero, Enrique Temprano, Ramón Jaúdenes and Pedro Nicolás reached the summit on July 11, 1979. While Nicolas continued to descend the next day, the other three stayed in camp two, where they stayed were buried and killed by an avalanche in the early morning hours of July 13th.
The Swiss Ruth Steinmann was the first woman to reach the summit on June 30, 1983 together with Edi Furrer. Her expedition comrades Andreas Müller and Felix Waltert were successful one day later. After the mountaineers had previously failed on the first ascent of the north ridge, they set up a camp on the normal route and climbed the mountain from there in alpine style .
In the summer of 1985 there were three expeditions on the mountain. A Spanish expedition led by Angel Serra failed in June because of the ascent of the north ridge; They lacked the necessary fixed ropes to insure numerous rock and ice steps, and a bear broke into camp 1 and ate 30 daily rations. On the other hand, an Austrian expedition that climbed the summit via the normal route with a chain of bearings was successful. Fred Pressl, Heinz Thallinger, Roland Schulz, Edi Koblmüller , Ingo Granderath, Gerald Fellner, Nani Klappert, Herbert Spousta, Christl Stöger, Gerhard Haberl and the Hungarian Istvan Katouna reached the summit between July 23rd and 30th. Koblmüller and Pressl managed the first descent over the north ridge. On July 24th, members of a British group were also successful on the same route: Alastair Reid, Mark Miller, Doug Scott and his son Michael; the Icelander Helgi Benediktsson from her team reached the summit a day later together with one of the Austrians. Sean Smith and the Pakistani Nazir Sabir failed three days later below the summit due to bad weather. Fellner, Haberl, Koblmüller and Pressl also reached the neighboring 7070 m high eastern summit of the Rakaposhi on August 1st , which they climbed in alpine style from an advanced base camp at 4500 m altitude. When descending into bad weather, Fellner fell just above the camp and died of the consequences of his head injuries.
Web links
- Diran on Peakbagger.com (English)
Individual evidence
- ↑ Rudolph Pischinger: Diran. In: American Alpine Journal 1969, pp. 454f. (AAJO) , accessed October 9, 2012.
- ^ OV: Minapin. In: American Alpine Journal 1960, p. 160. (AAJO) , accessed October 9, 2012.
- ^ Andrés Fernández: Diran, Hunza, Second Ascent and Tragedy. In: American Alpine Journal 1980, p. 653. (AAJO) , accessed October 9, 2012.
- ↑ Ruth Steinmann: Diran. In: American Alpine Journal 1984, p. 302. (AAJO) , accessed October 9, 2012.
- ^ Gerhard Haberl: Diran and Rakaposhi Ascents and Tragedy. And: Douglas Scott: Diran Ascent, Nanga Parbat Attempt and Other Peaks near the Karakoram Highway. And: Angel Serra: Diran Ascent. In: American Alpine Journal 1986, pp. 282-286. (AAJO) , accessed October 9, 2012.