Goller

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Francis II of France (1544–1560) with a goller made of ermine skin , behind him Maria Stuart

A Goller or Koller (from Old High German chollâri , a neck garment, from Middle Latin collarium "neck armor", from Latin collare , "neck band", from collum , "neck") is a garment as neck or shoulder clothing that acts as a kind of loose overalls ( Collar ) is worn around the neck and over the shoulders and can partially cover the chest, back or neck.

history

The goller was often fastened under the armpits with a goller chain. In the 14th century the collar part of the Gugel was called Goller. After that it was part of many bourgeois women's costumes until the 18th century . B. in the Netherlands, Germany and Switzerland (see also → Göller ). It was partly decorated with velvet and fur , lavishly adorned with braids , pearls and fine embroidery or made entirely of lace and served, from around 1500 to around 1630, to protect the female décolleté from sunlight. Then the goller got bigger and sewn together under the armpits, so that it developed into a kind of sleeveless jacket .

Gollers made of leather or other sturdier materials have been used as part of armor since the late 15th century ; in the 17th century it was developed into a leather armor for cavalry and infantry (see also: Koller (uniform) ).

Rage

In modern fashion, a roll is understood to be a part placed on the back on jackets, jackets or sporty coats or a decorative seam at armpit height. The opposite is the saddle (put on, doubled).

See also

literature

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Friedrich Kluge , Alfred Götze : Etymological dictionary of the German language . 20th ed., Ed. by Walther Mitzka , De Gruyter, Berlin / New York 1967; Reprint (“21st unchanged edition”) ibid 1975, ISBN 3-11-005709-3 , p. 389.
  2. Alfons Hofer: Textile and Model Lexicon . 7th edition, Volume 1, Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 1997, keyword “Koller”. ISBN 3-87150-518-8 .