Gyachung Kang
| Gyachung Kang | ||
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| height | 7952 m | |
| location | Solukhumbu District ( Nepal ), Tibet ( China ) |
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| Mountains | Mahalangur Himal ( Himalaya ) | |
| Dominance | 8.24 km → Cho Oyu | |
| Notch height | 672 m ↓ ( 7280 m ) | |
| Coordinates | 28 ° 5 '53 " N , 86 ° 44' 32" E | |
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| First ascent | April 10, 1964 by a Japanese expedition | |
| Normal way | Glaciated alpine tour | |
 The Gyachung Kang seen on the way to Ngozumpa Tse. |
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Gyachung Kang is a 7952 m high mountain in the Himalayas on the border between China and Nepal .
It is the highest mountain between Mount Everest and Cho Oyu in the Mahalangur Himal . It is located about 8 km east of Cho Oyu and is connected to it by a long ridge, which does not fall below an altitude of 7200 m . In the east lies the Nup La ("West Pass") between the Rongbuk Valley in the north and the Dudhkoshi Valley in the south. The Gyachung Kang is considered to be the highest seven-thousand-meter peak on earth. The Gyachung Kang is located on the Nepalese side in the Sagarmatha National Park .
Ascent history
It was first climbed on April 10, 1964 by Yukihiko Kato and Kiyondo Sakeisawa ( Japan ) and Pasang Phutar III (Nepal), participants in a Japanese expedition, over the northwest ridge. On April 11th, Kazunobu Machida and Kuzunari Yasuhisa followed. During the expedition, the Japanese Akio Otaki was killed in a fall.
A Slovenian team led by Andrej Stremfelj climbed the north face in 1999. This first ascent from Tibet was only the fourth ascent of the mountain. This route was repeated in 2001 by Yasushi Yamanoi. On the descent, he and his wife Taeko, who had stayed at 7,500 m in the last bivouac, got caught in a snow storm and had to survive several avalanches. Both suffered severe frostbite.
Alibi function
The Gyachung Kang as an "almost eight-thousander" located 20 km west of Mount Everest has an eventful history as a registered, alleged destination of at least one expedition whose actual, unregistered and therefore illegal destination was Mount Everest. In 1962 a small expedition led by Woodrow Sayre reached the north route to climb Mount Everest and reached a height of approx. 7800 m , although only one ascent of Gyachung Kang had actually been approved.
Web links
- Gyachung Kang on Peakbagger.com (English)
- Gyachung Kang at Peakware (English)
- Heights and notches at www.viewfinderspanorama.org
Individual evidence
- ^ A b AAJ, 1965: Asia, Nepal, Gyachung Kang
- ^ Marko Prezelj: Gyachung Kang. An alpine mentality in the Himalaya. In: American Alpine Journal 2000, pp. 75-85. (AAJO)
- ↑ Report of the north face ascent 2001 at www.alpinist.com
- ↑ Walt Unsworth: Everest. The Mountaineering History. Third edition. Seattle / London 2001, p. 152ff.