Ruff (fashion)
The ruff (also crocus , fraise , dutch collar , millstone ) emerged as part of Spanish fashion in the 16th century from the frilled end of the collar . The ruff was usually made of white linen , strengthened with a curling iron tubular romped ( pipe collar ). It was also decorated with lace or made entirely of lace, especially for women. Occasionally there were also unstarched, soft frills. The ruff was an integral part of upscale going out for both men and women.
In Spain itself they were called lechuguilla (" little salad ") with a witty allusion, and towards the end of the 16th century the ruffles became so expansive that they were called millstone collars in Germany . Especially in women's fashion between approx. 1590 and approx. 1625, gigantic, fantastically shaped structures sometimes appeared, some with large tubes and often made of pure lace. There have been many critics in Spain against the fashion of the huge frills, including writers like Cervantes . There Philip IV succeeded in the 1620s in replacing it in men's fashion with a simple, plate-shaped stand-up collar.
In contrast to the strictly high-necked Spanish fashion with ruff, women in France also wore cleavage in the 16th century and then used a stand-up collar (Stuart or Medici collar ; sometimes together with a ruff ). In French, English and Dutch men’s clothing, the uncomfortable frill was occasionally replaced by a flat collar made of linen or lace as early as the late 1580s .
In the bourgeois clothing of the Netherlands , however, the ruff remained for a long time, and in the Hanseatic cities also as a component of official costumes , including the mayors , senators and professors .
The ruff survived in the Commedia dell'Arte into the 18th century and even seems to have occasionally reappeared from there in the Rococo fashion, as can be seen in paintings by Watteau , Fragonard, and others. a. able to see. It is also typical for the costume of Pierrot and some clowns . Even in the 19th century, small, subtle frills were sometimes in fashion for women.
Even today, the ruff becomes the robe part of Lutheran pastors and pastors in northern German cities such as Hamburg , Lübeck , Wismar , Rostock , Stralsund and southern Germany Augsburg as well as in Denmark , the Faroe Islands and Greenland worn.
Diane de France, Duchesse d'Angoulême , around 1560. A stand-up collar open at the front with a small frill is a pre-form of the actual frill. Such half-frills were particularly popular in French women's fashion.
François Clouet : Elisabeth of Austria , Queen of France, ca.1571
Nicholas Hilliard : Sir Walter Raleigh , approx. 1585. Lace trimmings were also common for men.
Hans von Aachen : The painter Joseph Heintz , 1585. A soft, unstarched curl.
Peter Candid : Duchess Magdalena of Bavaria , ca.1613
The natural philosopher Johannes Kepler (1610)
Jordaens : The Jordaens family in a garden , around 1621
Johannes Cornelisz. Verspronck : Portrait of a lady with a millstone frill , 1644
Antoine Watteau : The Italian Comedy , around 1718
Nicolas-Antoine Taunay: The Marquesa de Belas , 1816
The Mayor of Hamburg Werner von Melle (1905)
Pernille Vigsø Bagge, 2015
Jorge Manuel Theotokopouli
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