Kanzashi

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Kanzashi ( Japanese 簪 ) is a hair ornament that is worn in traditional Japanese women's hairstyle.

Kanzashi are made from a variety of materials such as lacquered wood, gold-plated and silver-plated metal, gold , tortoiseshell , silk and, more recently, plastic . Early bakelite kanzashi are in great demand.

There are several ways to wear them. In a geisha, both the material and the way it is worn indicate her status. Maikos (trainee geishas) wear more and more elaborate kanzashi than older geishas, ​​whereby the kanzashi have to be put in a certain pattern for each hairstyle. Some of them are said to have also been used for self-defense in an emergency.

origin

The word kanzashi probably comes from kamizashi ( 髪 刺 ), which means “hairpin”. Its origin can be traced back to the Jōmon period , when people stuck thin sticks into their hair to counteract curses; these were later generally used as good luck charms.

In the Heian period (8th to 12th centuries), the Taregami hairstyles , in which the hair was worn long and straight, so that hair ornaments fell out of use. In the Azuchi-Momoyama period and the beginning of the Edo period (late 16th / early 17th century), clothing and hats covering the face were banned, so that hair and headdresses began to prevail again. In the middle of the Edo period, elaborate hairstyles such as the Nihongami style developed for women in the aristocratic classes , and artisans produced equally elaborate hair accessories .

Nowadays Kanzashi be used almost only by brides or if special emphasis should be placed on tradition, as maiko , geisha , in the Japanese tea ceremony and ikebana , formerly at Tayu / Oiran and yujo . However, there is also a trend among young women to revive the kanzashi, which are supposed to exude a certain elegance.

species

There are several basic styles of kanzashi, as well as complex floral and seasonal arrangements.

  • Mimikaki kanzashi ( 耳 か き 簪 ) is derived from ear sticks ( mimikaki ), i. H. a stick, curved like a hook at one end, with which the ear wax was scraped out. As the simplest form, they were also worn by the general population.
  • Tama kanzashi ( 玉簪 , "ball kanzashi ") are sticks with a ball of coral or jade at one end.
  • Hirauchi kanzashi ( 平 打 (ち) 簪 , "Kanzashi beaten flat") are chopsticks with a flat and round decoration.
  • Matsuba kanzashi ( 松葉 簪 ) are forked chopsticks that come together again at the end and thus simulate the shape of a pine cone ( matsuba ).
  • Birabira kanzashi ( び ら び ら 簪 ) or Birakan ( ビ ラ カ ン ) are metal strips connected to the body of jewelry, so that they move and jingle ( birabira ) independently of each other . Often the jewelry body has a fan shape ( 扇型 , Ōgi -gata ).
  • Hana kanzashi ( 花 簪 , "flower kanzashi") are flowers imitated from silk. For details, see the Flower Kanzashi section .

The following also fall under Kanzashi in the broader sense, but often also considered separately from these:

  • Kogai (笄 ) are rods made of different materials, such as metal, tortoise shell or ceramic, which were originally used as sword jewelry . They are often sold in a set with kushi.
  • Kushi ( 櫛 ) are rounded combs made of tortoiseshell or lacquered wood, in which mother-of-pearl or gold leaf is often incorporated. They are put into the bun ( mage ). The back of the comb is often very long to leave enough room for the design. Hanagushi (flower combs) are combs in which pieces of silk are glued to a wooden comb.

  • Tama kanzashi

  • golden hirauchi kanzashi

  • Birabira kanzashi in Ōgi form

  • Kogai and Kushi made of lacquered wood

Flower kanzashi

Flower kanzashi are the long, fluttering flowers of the maiko. They are made by artisans from silk squares using a technique known as a tsumami . Each square is folded several times with the help of pliers and cut into a single flower. Then they are either attached to a metal support to make whole flowers, or connected with silk threads to form a flower chain. Often butterflies and birds are also made. Additional details such as stamens are designed by Mizuhiki ( 水 引 ). A strong, thin thread made of Japanese paper is used, which is painted decoratively.

Geisha wear different flower kanzashi depending on the month or holiday. In the summer months from June to September white or silver-colored, and during the winter months from October to May tortoiseshell and coral are used.

Seasons kanzashi

January-Kanzashi with Shōchikubai , d. H. Pine, bamboo and ume flowers
Maiko with June kanzashi
Two maiko with November kanzashi
December kanzashi with mochi flowers and name tags

The seasons determine which kanzashi, especially floral kanzashi, are worn:

  • January : The January kanzashi vary from year to year, but usually have a auspicious New Year theme. Is popular Shōchikubai , a combination of pine ( matsu , Sino Japanese : shō ), bamboo - ( take , Sino Japanese: chiku ) and Ume blossoms (Sino Japanese: bai , green, red and white), which are also used in the New Year celebrations.
  • February : Usually hanging pink or occasionally red ume flowers are used, which can be seen all over Japan at this time of the year. They represent young love and the dawn of spring. Another less used topic is wind turbines.
  • March : The Kanzashi are hanging yellow and white canola flowers ( nanohana ) and butterflies, as well as peach blossoms ( momo ), daffodils ( Suisen ) and Peony ( botan, Paeonia suffruticosa ).
  • April : The kanzashi are hanging pink cherry blossoms ( sakura ) mixed with butterflies and bonbori lanterns, which represent the dawn of summer. Viewing the cherry blossoms ( hanami ) at this time is the cultural event of Japan. Also, single silver or sometimes gold butterfly kanzashi made from mizuhiki threads are usually used.
  • May : The kanzashi are pendulous purple Japanese wisteria ( fuji ) and irises ( ayame, Iris sanguinea ), usually a blue variety. Small silver butterflies also appear as an extra.
  • June : The kanzashi are hanging green willow leaves ( yanagi ) with cloves ( nadeshiko ) or (more rarely) garden hydrangeas ( ajisai ). The willow traditionally represents the geisha. Since June is Japan's rainy season, the willow tree is used as a water-loving tree and the garden hydrangeas for their watery blue.
  • July : The kanzashi are fans. Usually the round uchiwa are used, but sometimes also foldable dance fans. The subjects refer to the Gion-Matsuri taking place at this time . During this major event in the geisha district of Gion in Kyoto , hundreds of traditional geisha dances are performed, in which fans are an essential part. The subjects differ from year to year according to the festival. Themes are dragonflies and lines that represent swirling water. Fireworks kanzashi and tsuyushiba (dew drops on the grass) are also used.
  • August : The Kanzashi are morning glories ( asagao, Ipomoea nil ) or Chinese reeds . The Chinese reed is arranged like a star. Older maiko wear white silver and younger maiko pink or red.
  • September : The kanzashi is the balloon flower ( kikyō ), whose purple tones traditionally represent autumn. It is often combined with other autumn flowers such as the hagi shrub ( hagi ), golden baldrian ( ominaeshi, Patrinia scabiosifolia ), chrysanthemum ( kiku ), water feast ( fujibakama, Eupatorium fortunei ), kudzu ( kuzu ) or carnation ( nadeshiko ).
  • October : The kanzashi is the chrysanthemum ( kiku ). It is not only a very popular flower in Japan, but also the symbol of the imperial family . The chrysanthemums used are usually red and white, as this combination represents high autumn.
  • November : The kanzashi are pendulous autumn leaves: either a normal yellow leaf or a red maple leaf. Viewing the maple is the fall equivalent of the cherry blossom viewing. Ginkgo and sweetgum leaves are also used.
  • December : Mochi , which are supposed to represent white flowers, are often made at this time of the year and used to decorate trees. Kanzashi with mochibana (mochi flowers) are said to bring good luck. The kanzashi also includes two maneki (tiny, blank signs). The Maiko visit a Kabuki theater (traditionally the Minamiza in Kyōto) and ask two of their favorite Kabuki actors to describe them by their Kabuki stage name. Some December kanzashi also contain bamboo leaves.
  • New Year : At this time, all maiko and geisha wear shell-less rice ears on their right side. These kanzashi also feature eyeless white pigeons. The maiko and geisha paint in one eye and ask someone else they like for the other eye.

Novels

Web links

Commons : Kanzashi  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ 簪 . In: 世界 大 百科 事 典 第 ２ 版 at kotobank.jp. Retrieved February 2, 2013 (Japanese).
  2. ↑ a b c d e f g h Chiho Inaba, Yukari Maruoka: Kanzashi. (No longer available online.) In: Learning About Kyoto. Kyoto Foreign Language University, 2009, archived from the original on July 23, 2013 ; accessed on February 2, 2013 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.kyopro.kufs.ac.jp
  3. ↑ 松葉 簪 . In: デ ジ タ ル 大 辞 泉 at kotobank.jp. Retrieved February 2, 2013 (Japanese).
  4. ↑ 頭 物 . In: デ ジ タ ル 大 辞 泉 at kotobank.jp. Retrieved February 2, 2013 (Japanese).