Ludwig Abraham & Co

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Ludwig Abraham, Zurich silk weaving school , course 1915–1916

The Ludwig Abraham Seiden & Co. AG in 1878 as a silk trading company in Zurich founded, specializing in silk fabric design for the haute couture and ready-to-wear .

history

Jakob Abraham became a partner in the Zurich silk trading company Königsberger & Rüdenberg in 1878 . In 1912 he and his new partner, Edmund Brauchbar (1872–1952) from Vienna, founded Abraham, Brauchbar & Cie . In 1921 his son Ludwig Abraham took over the management with Edmund Brauchbar . They mainly sold fabrics for clothing with a broad segment. Useful was considered a respected specialist in the field of nouveauté fabric printing.

After Edmund Brauchbar retired from business life, the company split up in 1942: Rudolf and Florie Brauchbar founded the company Rudolf Brauchbar & Co.

Ludwig Abraham founded Ludwig Abraham & Co. Seiden AG in 1943 . The company's history was shaped by Gustav Zumsteg (1915–2005), who started as an apprentice in 1931 and became a partner in the company in 1943. Zumsteg lived in Paris from 1936 to 1943 , where he got to know the artists and couturiers personally. From 1941 he managed the Paris subsidiary of the silk trading house Abraham, where he met Yves Saint Laurent for the first time in 1957 , whose collections were from then on shaped by Zumsteg's designs and Abraham fabrics. In 1957 he also took over the management of the Kronenhalle restaurant in Zurich .

Zumsteg became the sole owner of the business in 1968 after Abraham resigned. He directed the company towards textiles for haute couture and cooperated with well-known fashion designers. As a fashion converter, the company did not produce itself, but instead had it manufactured by weaving mills (Antonio Ratti in Como) and fabric printing shops according to its own designs. Customers included the fashion labels , Balenciaga , Jacques Fath , Hubert de Givenchy , Edward Molyneux , Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior , Chanel , Emanuel Ungaro and Óscar de la Renta . The Saint Laurent exhibition in 1984 at the Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art in New York showed the results of the close collaboration with Zumsteg.

After the death of his mother Hulda Zumsteg (1890–1984), Zumsteg took over the Kronenhalle restaurant. The Abraham company went bankrupt in 2007.

The Abraham Textile Archive was created in 1953, was donated to the Swiss National Museum in 2007 by the Hulda and Gustav Zumsteg Foundation and includes around 4,800 objects (cloth wears, sample tabs, design cards). The company archive in the State Archives of the Canton of Zurich was indexed in 2017.

Exhibitions

literature

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Obituary for Edmund Usable. Communications on the textile industry: Swiss specialist publication for the entire textile industry, Volume 59, 1952, Issue 11
  2. ↑ En Soie Story
  3. ^ [1] Die Welt from February 9, 2011: Exhibition in Zurich: Material for elegance
  4. ↑ NZZ of November 7, 2002: Brittle silk
  5. ↑ NZZ of June 18, 2005: Gustav Zumsteg died
  6. ↑ Sigrid Pallmert: The Abraham company - a piece of Swiss history . “The Collection” magazine: gifts, acquisitions, conservation, Swiss national museums. Volume 2002-2003
  7. ↑ Zurich silk industry society ZSIG: Abraham
  8. ↑ Soie pirate
  9. ↑ [2]
  10. ↑ NZZ of October 21, 2010: Visual memory in silk

Coordinates: 47 ° 20 '55.6 "  N , 8 ° 33' 54.9"  E ; CH1903:  six hundred and eighty-five thousand one hundred twenty-six  /  244824