Trango Tower
| Trango Tower - Nameless Tower | ||
|---|---|---|
 The Nameless Tower |
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| height | 6251 m | |
| location | Gilgit-Baltistan ( Pakistan ) | |
| Mountains | Baltoro Muztagh ( Karakoram ) | |
| Dominance | 0.81 km → Great Trango Tower | |
| Notch height | 601 m ↓ ( 5650 m ) | |
| Coordinates | 35 ° 46 '10 " N , 76 ° 11' 31" E | |
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| rock | granite | |
| First ascent | July 8, 1976 by Mo Anthoine and Martin Boysen | |
The Trango Tower or Nameless Tower is a 6251 m high granite peak on the north side of the Baltoro Glacier across from Urdukas in the Baltoro Muztagh in northern Pakistan . It is considered to be the most spectacular peak among the Trango towers .
Ascent history
In 1975, the British Joe Brown attempted an ascent, but failed. One year later, on July 8, 1976, the British Mo Anthoine and Martin Boysen, followed the next day by Joe Brown and Malcom Howells, made the first ascent of the Southwest Face. The route is more than twenty pitches long and mostly heavier than VI (UIAA) .
In 1987 the Slovenes Slavko Cankar, Franc Knez and Bojan Srot managed a new route through the southeast face ( Slovenian guide ). The route was cleared a year later by Kurt Albert , Wolfgang Güllich and Hartmut Münchenbach, that is, without the use of technical aids. This year Erhard Loretan and Wojciech Kurtyka made the fourth ascent via a new route in the east face.
In 1990 Catherine Destivelle managed the second free ascent of the Slovenian route with Jeff Lowe for a film project by David Breashears
The so far most difficult route Eternal Flame (IX-, UIAA; 22 pitches; with some technically climbed passages) to the summit via the south pillar was first climbed on September 10, 1989 by Wolfgang Güllich and his rope partner Kurt Albert. The route has long been considered the most difficult climbing route over 5000 meters.
In 1992 Greg Child and Mark Wilford first climbed a new route through the Southeast Face.
In 1995 the east face could be freely climbed for the first time by an American team led by Todd Skinner (34 pitches).
In the summer of 2009, Franz Hinterbrandner, Mario Walder, Alexander and Thomas Huber managed the first red point ascent of Eternal Flame (IX + / X-, UIAA).
Web links
- Trango Tower on Peakbagger.com (English)
- The mountain at www.bergfieber.de
- Climbing routes at climbandmore.com
Individual evidence
- ↑ Pointdexter, Joseph: Between heaven and earth. The 50 highest peaks. Könemann, Cologne 1999, ISBN 3-8290-3561-6 , p. 29
- ^ Asia, Pakistan, Summary of Trango Ascents . American Alpine Journal, 1993, vol. 35.
- ↑ Kurt Albert - the German sport climbing legend. (url) In: redbull.com. Retrieved February 9, 2016 .
- ↑ Kurt Albert (January 18, 1954 - September 28, 2010). (url) In: bergstieg.com. Retrieved February 9, 2016 .
- ↑ Gaby Funk: dancer in the vertical. (PDF) German Alpine Club , April 2005, accessed on August 5, 2017 .
- ↑ Pointdexter, Joseph: Between heaven and earth. The 50 highest peaks. Könemann, Cologne 1999, ISBN 3-8290-3561-6 , p. 31
- ↑ Pointdexter, Joseph: Between heaven and earth. The 50 highest peaks. Könemann, Cologne 1999, ISBN 3-8290-3561-6 , p. 32