Patrick Edlinger

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Patrick Edlinger (born June 15, 1960 in Dax , Aquitaine ; † November 16, 2012 in La Palud-sur-Verdon ) was a French free climber who was also known under the name " Spiderman of the Gorges" and "Le Blond".

Life

Edlinger was considered one of the pioneers of free climbing along with other greats such as Patrick Berhault and Jean-Claude Droyer . Tours took him to the Verdon Gorge . With the films Opéra vertical and La vie au bout des doigts by Jean-Paul Janssen , in which he climbed some 7a routes free solo in the Verdon , he became known in the media in the early 1980s and free climbing became popular.

One of the routes developed by Edlinger is Ça glisse au pays de merveilles in Buoux in 1983, with the highest level of difficulty achieved at the time, 8a on the French scale. For Les Spécialistes , which he climbed for the first time , he suggested grade 8c, which was previously unreached, but the route is now rated as 8b +. Edlinger climbed the hardest routes of his era, such as Maginot Line in Volx and Agincourt (8b + / 8c) in Buoux. In 1986 he won the first ever climbing competitions in Bardonecchia and Arco , and in the summer of 1989 the first Climbing World Cup in the United States in Snowbird ( Utah ), where he was the only climber to reach the end of the route. In 1989 he achieved an unprecedented success with the Route Orange Mechanique (8a) in free solo.

Edlinger was one of the most important developers of the Céüse climbing area .

In 1995 Edlinger had a serious accident while climbing a calanque and has lived in seclusion ever since. He was one of the co-founders of Roc n'Wall magazine, for which he worked as an editor for several years, and ran the Gîte l'Escales in La Palud-sur-Verdon. Edlinger was married but lived separately from his wife Matia. He gave up climbing without safety after the birth of his daughter in 2002. Patrick Edlinger died on November 16, 2012 at the age of 52 after falling down stairs at home.

Climbed routes

  • 8c :
    • Maginot Line - Volx (FRA) - 1989 - First iteration of Ben Moon's route
    • Azincourt - Buoux (FRA) - 1989 - First repetition of Ben Moon's route
  • 8b :
    • Les sucettes à l'anis - Cimaï (FRA) - 1988 - first ascent
  • 8a + :
    • La Femme Blanche - Céüse (FRA) - 1985
    • La Boule - Sainte-Victoire (FRA) - 1984 - first ascent
  • 8a :
    • Orange Mécanique - Cimaï (FRA) - 1989 - Free solo ascent
    • Sphinx Crack - South Platte, Colorado (USA)
    • Ça glisse au pays des merveilles - Buoux (FRA) - 1983 - first ascent
  • 7c + :
    • La Femme Noire (7c / 7c +) - Céüse (FRA)
    • Fenrir - Verdon (FRA) - 1982 - first ascent
  • 7c :
    • Medius - St. Victoire (FRA) - 1981
    • La Polka des ringards - Buoux (FRA) - 1980 On-sight,

Fonts

  • Patrick Edlinger, Robert Nicod: Verdon, Opéra vertical. Arthaud, Paris 1983, ISBN 2-7003-0435-7 .
  • Patrick Edlinger, Alain Ferrand, Jean-François Lemoine: Grimper: Pratique et plaisir de l'escalade. Arthaud, Paris 1985, ISBN 978-2700305029 .
  • Patrick Edlinger, Gérard Kosicki: Rock games: escalades aux USA. Arthaud, Paris 1986, ISBN 978-2700305692 .

literature

  • Heinz Zak: Rock stars: the world's best free climbers. Bergverlag Rother, Oberhaching 1996, p. 117ff; ISBN 978-3763370443 .

Movies

  • Claude Lelouch : La Belle Histoire. France 1992
  • Jean-Paul Janssen: Opera vertical. France, 1986
  • José Giovanni : Les Loups entre eux. France 1985
  • Jean-Paul Janssen: Life at your fingertips ( La vie au bout des doigts ). France, 1983

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ http://www.laprovence.com/article/actualites/mort-du-grimpeur-patrick-edlinger-il-a-revolutionne-lescalade laprovence.com
  2. ^ Message on sueddeutsche.de from November 19, 2012 , accessed on November 19, 2012
  3. ↑ Matt Samet, Mike Tea, Dave Pegg: Climbing Dictionary: Mountaineering Slang, Terms, Neologisms and Lingo - An Illustrated Reference to More Than 600 Words . The Mountaineers Books, 2011, p. 204
  4. ↑ a b c Adieu Patrick Edlinger . planetmountain, November 17th, 2012
  5. ^ Greg Child: Postcards from the Ledge: Collected Mountaineering Writings of Greg Child . The Mountaineers Books, 2000, p. 39
  6. ^ 1989 American Alpine Journal Volume 63, American Alpine Club Annual Resources Series, p. 134
  7. ↑ Patrick Edlinger: 'The god of free climbing' who became a national hero in France . The Independent, December 3, 201
  8. ↑ Patrick Edlinger is dead: sport climbing legend died at 52 Alpin.de, November 21, 2012, accessed on September 15, 2013.
personal data
SURNAME Edlinger, Patrick
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Spiderman of the Gorges; Le Blond
BRIEF DESCRIPTION French free climber
DATE OF BIRTH June 15, 1960
PLACE OF BIRTH Dax , Aquitaine
DATE OF DEATH November 16, 2012
Place of death La Palud-sur-Verdon