Roger Frison-Roche

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Roger Frison-Roche

Roger Frison-Roche (born February 10, 1906 in Paris , † December 17, 1999 in Chamonix ) was a French writer , journalist and adventurer.

Life

Between 1916 and 1920 he attended high school in Paris and discovered his love for the mountains and alpinism, which was still young at the time , during his holidays in Beaufort . At the age of 17 he moved to Chamonix. From 1923 to 1924 he worked on the Olympic Committee for the First Winter Olympic Games and made a name for himself as an alpinist through some difficult mountain tours in the Mont-Blanc massif . Some of his companions and teachers at this time served him as models for his main characters in his books, in addition to the otherwise predominantly fictional characters . In 1928 he met Marguerite Landot, with whom he remained married until his death. His greatest personal wish came true in 1930 when he was the first non-native to be accepted into the Compagnie des guides, the Chamonix mountain guides' association. From 1935 onwards he undertook several expeditions to African deserts, especially to the region of the Hoggar Mountains in Algeria. He experienced the Second World War as a war correspondent for the Allies in Africa until he was captured by the Germans in Kairouan in 1943 and sentenced to death. After being transferred to a prison in Vichy , he managed to escape to Chamonix, which was then occupied by the Italians. After the war he undertook various expeditions, including to the Sahara , Lapland , Canada and the USA. In 1992 he was promoted to command of the French Legion of Honor and died in Chamonix in 1999.

Work description

In his novels he drew a very precise picture of the development and dangers of alpinism in the Chamonix valley. You get an insight into the organization of high-alpine tourism , the hierarchy within the Compagnie des guides and into the career of a mountaineer from simple porters to mountain guides . The most important mountain tours and the surrounding landscape are described in great detail. In the original French versions, he sometimes lets his main characters speak in the local dialect , the Savoyard, which is still spoken sporadically in the region today.

Works

  • First on the rope . Carta-Verlag, Pforzheim _381 1982, ISBN 3-88731-009-8 .
  • The desert princess . Lichtenberg, Munich 1979, ISBN 3-7852-1223-2 .
  • Nahanni . List, Munich 1971, ISBN 3-471-77512-9 .
  • With the last hunter peoples . List, Munich 1968.
  • Embers under the snow . List, Munich 1964.
  • The mountain guide's wife . List, Munich 1959.
  • The desert answered . Wegner, Hamburg 1956.
  • Ascension tragique dans les Alpes . Schöningh, Paderborn 1956.
  • The seal of the Sahara . List, Munich 1955.
  • Fate mountain . Orell Füssli, Zurich 1949.
  • Rope companions , together with Alfred Graber, Orell Füssli Verlag, Zurich 1942.

Web links and sources