Sage cakes

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fresh sage cakes

Sage cakes are a traditional dish made from whole sage leaves that are baked in a batter in lard , butter or oil . Because of their shape, reminiscent of the tail of a mouse with the sage angel sticking out of the dough, they are called sage mice , Swabian mice and Swiss German muesli (-chüechli) in South Tyrol .

preparation

Any type of dough is recommended, usually a batter with beer or wine or a fire mixture, which is mixed with the egg white and egg yolk separately or with a smaller proportion of egg yolk or without any egg yolks at all. If necessary, cinnamon , saffron or other spices are added to the dough . The sage leaves are washed, dried, pulled through the liquid dough until both sides are covered with dough, and then baked in heated fat - butter, lard or oil - until golden brown. If necessary, excess fat is removed with cellulose or carefully pressed between two forks. As a dessert they can be sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon, as an accompaniment to other dishes, also with salt.

France

In French they are called beignets de sauge or beignets aux feuilles de sauge . The Thresor de santé (1607), which documents French cuisine in the second half of the 16th century, describes its preparation as follows: “You make donuts ( bignets ) with it [ie with sage] by cutting the most beautiful and largest leaves of the sage wrapped in a dough made of fine flour, which is kneaded and loosened with eggs, sugar, cinnamon and saffron, and baked in fresh butter in a pan. "

Italy

In Italian they are known as frittelle di salvia . An Italian recipe from the 15th century describes the preparation in a similar way to the Thresor de santé , offers a choice of lard or oil as shortening and indicates that borage leaves can also be used instead of sage .

Literary testimonies

Sage cakes have also found their way into literature and poetry. The early modern gourmet song Ein hen [n] lein white , set to music, perhaps also written by Antonio Scandello and first printed in his collection Nawe and Funny Secular Deudsche Liedlein in 1570, then also by Johann Fischart in his Geschichtklitterung (first edition from 1575) and later was taken over by other editors in numerous other collections, celebrates the baking of sage and spritz cakes with the verse: "Let's bake a k [ü] chelein, / meuselein and streubelein, / and drink the cool wine too". Gottfried Keller wrote in 1860 in Das Fähnlein der Seven Upright : “... she (Frau Hediger) also took a good handful of sage leaves, dipped them in a batter and baked them in hot butter to make so-called mice, as the stalks of the leaves looked like mouse tails .. .. "

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b Guida gastronomica italiana , photomechanical reprint of the 1931 edition, Touring Club Italiano , Milan 2005, p. 152
  2. ↑ Hermann Fischer, Baden Dictionary , Volume IV, Verlag der Laupp'schen Buchhandlung, Stuttgart 1904, Art. "Mouse", § 4.f, Sp. 1559-1560
  3. ↑ Schweizerisches Idiotikon III 138, Article Müslichüechli and IV 476, Article Mus I 2a-theta
  4. ↑ a b Amalie Schneider-Schlöth , Basler Kochschule , 6th revised. Ed., Verlag der Basler Buch und Antiquariatshandlung, formerly Adolf Geering, Basel 1903, p. 395, No. 1245: “Sage cakes: You can prepare any batter [...] dip fresh sage leaves (each one separately) into it, bake them in hot Fat and serve sprinkled with sugar "
  5. ^ The Fülscher cookbook , recipe 931
  6. ^ A b Johann Georg Krünitz, Oeconomische Encyclopädie , Part 131, Berlin 1822, Art. "Salbeykuchen", p. 35: "You roast fine wheat flour in lard completely dry, beat three whole eyes that have previously been placed in warm water, the whiteness of it; then stir the dough, pour in a little white wine, pull the sage leaves through this canned dough and bake them in hot lard "
  7. ↑ See the recipe for "Salbeiküchlein (" Mäusle ")" reproduced by Michael Barczyk, Essen und Trinken im Barock: Oberschwäbische Leibspeisen , Thorbecke, Sigmaringen 1981, ISBN 3-7995-4033-4 , p. 82: "[...] Take pretty broad sage, pull it through fresh water, break off the small tips at the front, place them between a clean cloth and let it dry. Meanwhile let a piece of lard get quite hot in a pan, toast a good handful of flour in it rather dry, put it in a deep bowl, salt it and stir it with a little fresh water, beat the whites of 2 eggs, then a whole , again an egg white, and again a whole one alternately until the dough is right in thickness. Then put one leaf after the other in it, let it run off a little, and bake it in very hot lard [...] "
  8. ↑ Philippe Cyriaque Bridel , Glossaire du patois de la Suisse romande , self-published, Lausanne 1866, Volume II, Art. “Beignet, bounyè”, p. 315
  9. ↑ Thresor de santé, ou, Mesnage de la vie humaine […] par vn des plus celebres & fameux Medecins de ce siecle , Chez Iean Ant. Huguetan, Lyon 1607, p. 420: “On en fait des bignets, enuelopant les plus belles & plus larges feuilles de la sauge d'vne paste de fine farine, qu'on pestrit & dissout auec des oeufs, succre, canelle, & saffran, les faisant frire en beurre frais en la poesle. "
  10. ↑ Claudio Benporat, Cucina del Quattrocento , Olschki, Florenz 1996 (= Biblioteca dell'Archivum Romanicum, Series I, 272), p. 132: “Per fare frittelle di salvia piglia uno pocho di fiore de farina distempandolla con ove zucharo canella zafrano perche sia gialda e haby delle foglie di salvia integre et ad una ad una le involteray in questa talle compositione frizendolle in structo o vero in ollio et similmente poy fare dela boragine ”, cf. P. 132
  11. ↑ Charles Allyn Williams, Zur Liederpoesie in Fischarts Gargantua , Niemeyer, Halle 1909 (separate print from: PBB Contributions to the History of German Language and Literature 35.3 (1909), pp. 395-464), here pp. 44f., No 68, cf. P. 11 on the author's question, p. 16 on Scandello as Fischart's source
  12. ↑ Hildegard Schnabel (Ed.), Johann Fischart, Geschichtklitterung (Gargantua). Synoptic impression of the versions from 1575, 1582 and 1590 , Niemeyer, Halle 1969 (= reprints of German literary works, 65-69), p. 128
  13. ^ Hoffmann von Fallersleben, The German society songs of the 16th and 17th centuries , Part I, 2nd edition, Verlag Wilhelm Engelmann, Leipzig 1860, p. 326 on "Sträubelein
  14. ↑ Text by Scandello 1570 quoted from Williams 1909, p. 45, with reproduction of "u" with superscript "o" followed by "[ü]"
  15. ↑ Gutenberg