From Parish Costume Library

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From Parish Costume Library
From Parish Costume Library.jpg

founding 1970
Library type scientific special library
place Munich coordinates: 48 ° 9 ′ 6.8 ″  N , 11 ° 30 ′ 7 ″  EWorld icon
ISIL DE-M458
operator Munich City Museum / City of Munich
management Esther Sophia Sünderhauf
Website www.muenchner-stadtmuseum.de/sammlungen/modetextilienkostuem/vonparish-kostuembibliothek.html

The Von Parish Costume Library is a specialist academic library and museum collection on the history of fashion and costume and is one of the largest and most thematically comprehensive specialist collections of its kind in the world. It bears the name of its founder Hermine von Parish (* April 10, 1907 in Rome; † 31. October 1998 in Munich) and is located in Munich- Nymphenburg , Kemnatenstrasse 50.

Collection areas

European costume history is at the center of the collection . In addition, there are books and illustrations of almost all clothing and body design worldwide and from all eras. Thematic focuses are also European folk costumes , fashion design , work clothing , accessories, sportswear, youth fashion , stage clothing for theater and film as well as textile science, textile techniques and patterns . Individual images, newspaper articles, postcards, department store catalogs, company brochures, patterns, etc. are collected in the documentation.

In the collection of the Von Parish costume library, the current spelling is, there are also countless sewing instructions such as B. for creating house linen from 1924.

Extent of the collection

Hermione von Parish documented the evolution of Parisian fashion by collecting magazines such as the Journal des Desmoiselles from 1899.

The steadily growing collection currently includes around 10,000 books and 2,000 volumes of journals, as well as 3,500 magazine files with individual issues. Most of them are richly illustrated works from the 16th to 19th centuries. The stock of 1,500 different magazine titles, beginning with some rare editions from the 18th century, is of worldwide importance. Subscriptions to 30 international fashion journals are ongoing. A central part of the collection is the image archive with 40,000 graphics and 30,000 photos. The documentation comprises 4,000 archive boxes with around 1.5 million units, which are arranged chronologically and systematically. Together with the Lipperheide Costume Library in Berlin, which was made public as early as 1899, the Von Parish Costume Library is one of the world's largest specialist libraries on costume history.

An extensive family archive is also kept in the Von Parish Costume Library, including the artistic and personal estate of the painter Emanuel Spitzer , a grandfather of Hermione von Parishs.

History of the collection

The foundations of today's collection were laid by Hermine von Parish's maternal great-grandfather, Rudolf Marggraff , in the 1850s . From 1841 to 1855 he was General Secretary of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts and wrote the first directory of paintings in the Alte Pinakothek (Munich 1865). His granddaughter Hermine Viktoria von Parish, mother of Hermine von Parish, expanded this first collection of costume designs when she had the financial means available from 1906 through her marriage to the wealthy Edmund von Parish. After the death of her husband in 1916, she continued to collect and introduced her then nine-year-old daughter Hermine to this area. In 1936 the move to Villa Kemnatenstrasse 50 (at that time Wotanstrasse), Hermine von Parish sen. had already acquired from her husband's inheritance at the end of 1916.

The house was damaged during the Second World War. The costume collection and library were therefore evacuated in 1944 with the help of the Bavarian State Office for Monument Preservation and distributed to seven different locations in Bavaria. The most valuable part, kept in the hospital town of Bad Tölz , classified as "safe" by the authorities , was completely looted and burned in the post-war chaos.

In the 1950s, the private costume collection and library became the "Institute for Costume Research". Since 1959, the non-profit "von Parish Society for the Promotion of Costume Research eV", which was founded by Hermine von Parish, has supported the work of the house. In 1970, at the age of 63, Hermine von Parish sold her villa with property to the City of Munich, but stayed in it; The library and collection were donated. Since then, the house has been connected to the Munich City Museum as an external department, which Hermine von Parish managed herself with the help of academic staff until her death in 1998. The high annuity from the city of Munich, which she received for the neighboring property at Kemnatenstrasse 48, had previously been invested in the purchase of new, particularly valuable collection items. In her will, she also bequeathed these holdings, which had been acquired in 1970, to the city on the condition that the collection be kept in her house at Kemnatenstrasse 50 for a long time.

For her services, Hermine von Parish received the medal Munich shines in gold in 1980 and posthumously in 2007 the “Prize for the Preservation of European Cultural Heritage” for her life's work. In 2018 she honored the city of Munich by naming Hermine-von-Parish-Strasse in Pasing-Obermenzing .

Since 1998 a modest amount of purchases and collections has been continued in order to continuously update and systematically add to the inventory.

Origin and family of Hermione of Parish

Hermine Elisabeth "Harriet" von Parish was born on April 10, 1907 in Rome during her parents' stay. Her father Edmund von Parish (Hamburg 1861–1916 Munich) comes from the important Hamburg merchant family von Parish. Edmund's great-grandfather John Parish (Leith / Scotland 1742–1829 Bath / England) came to Hamburg from Scotland in 1756. Large international trade and financial transactions made him and his sons the richest men of their time. The last remnants of this inheritance passed on to Hermione von Parish. Her mother, Hermine Viktoria von Parish (Munich 1881–1966 Munich), was the daughter of the Hungarian genre painter Emanuel Spitzer (Pápa 1844–1919 Waging am See), who had worked in Munich since 1871 and was the inventor of the “Spitzertypie” image printing process. Hermione von Parish was from her father's second marriage. The three half-siblings Helena, Richard and John von Parish come from his first marriage to Georgine Jung, which lasted from 1890 to 1901, and the three half-siblings Edmund Heines , Martha and Oskar Heines from his relationship with Helene Martha Heines.

Education and professional career of Hermine von Parish until 1945

Hermine von Parish junior has a continuous school education. not received, her mother occasionally taught her herself. In the field of art history and costume history, her later field of work, she was self-taught; She acquired her knowledge through intensive reading in self-study. Since the inheritance was invested in the purchase of Villa Kemnatenstrasse 50 (at that time Wotanstrasse) after the death of her father in 1916, the mother and daughter soon had to provide for their own living. Hermine von Parish worked in the "Manufactory for artistic costume and costume dolls", which her mother had successfully run since the early 1920s, and which existed until at least the end of 1948. In 1938 the Reich Chamber of Culture gave her permission to work as a designer and manufacturer of artist dolls. At the same time, the mother and daughter continued to build up the costume collection and library.

The "von Parish School of Fine and Applied Arts" (1946–1973)

In 1945, when resettlers were about to be quartered in the Nymphenburg villa and the costume library was threatened to be relocated, Hermine von Parish senior, who called herself a “painter”, founded the “von Parish School for Free and Applied Art” in the house. The approval of the American occupation authorities for this is dated December 17, 1945. From August 8, 1946, mother and daughter initially ran the state-approved private art school together. From 1956 she led Hermine von Parish jun. with sole teaching authorization in the studio on the 2nd floor of the villa. The curriculum included the main subjects drawing (nude, head, figure, draft and fashion drawing), painting, modeling, illustration, commercial art, set design and interior design. Auxiliary subjects were art history and style and costume studies, which Hermione von Parish taught personally. In her lessons, the picture archive, the books and the graphic collection were used as illustrative material. She also went to various exhibitions and excursions with the students. a. 1956 to Paris. After six semesters, a final exam could be taken in the presence of a government representative.

Prominent lecturers at the “von Parish School for Free and Applied Arts” were Eduard Aigner , academic painter, Dürer Prize winner and member of the exhibition management at Haus der Kunst, the poster artist Eugen Maria Cordier , Charles Crodel , expert in architecture-related painting and glass art, Rudolf Kriesch , graphic artist and draftsman for "Simplicissimus", and Max Unold , painter in the New Objectivity style. The students included a. the painter and graphic artist René Böll , son of Heinrich Böll , and Andreas Baader , later co-founder of the RAF .

In addition to teaching at the art school she runs, Hermine von Parish also taught art history and costume studies at the Otto Falckenberg School of the Münchner Kammerspiele (1957–1960) and at the State Vocational Education Institute in Munich (1960–1966).

The building

The house at Kemnatenstrasse 50 in Nymphenburg was acquired by the officer and sound artist Friedrich von Schirach (1870 Philadelphia – 1924 Munich), who commissioned the Art Nouveau villa in 1901 from the Munich construction company, Gebrüder Rank, in 1916 from Hermine von Parish's mother. The original interior from 1901 has been preserved in parts. The historicist living ambience of Hermine von Parish is preserved on the ground floor with the entrance, dining room, salon and the family library as a historical ensemble. In all other rooms there is a library, graphic collection, documentation, archive and office space.

Exhibitions of the Von Parish Costume Library

  • 1974: Costumes - conceived and worn, Münchner Stadtmuseum, January 25 - March 3, 1974
  • 1976: Allonge wig and train dress 1670 to 1730. Costumes from the time of Max Emanuel, Munich City Museum, August 5 - October 3, 1976
  • 1989: Clothing is an expression of the zeitgeist. Rare pictures and books by the v. Parish Costume Research Institute, Munich, Institute Français, June 5 - July 27, 1989
  • 1992: The catwalk came last. Fashion representations from 5 centuries, Munich, Maendler fashion house, April 9 - May 4, 1992 (organized by the Von Parish Society)
  • 2000: Costume books, mockery, fashion districts. Exhibition on the occasion of the 30th anniversary of the Von Parish Costume Library, Munich, Von Parish Costume Library, April 11th - May 5th, 2000
  • 2007: Hermine von Parish - on her 100th birthday, Musical Instrument Museum in the Munich City Museum, April 18 - April 29, 2007

Publications Hermione of Parishs

  • Parish, Hermine Harriet from: "The Costume Research Archive", in: Münchner Stadtmuseum, a booklet created in cooperation between the Münchner Stadtmuseum and Krauss-Maffei AG, Munich o. J., o. S.
  • Parish, Hermine / Heckner, Erwin (eds.), Exhib.cat. Allong wig and train dress 1670 - 1730. Costumes from the time of Max Emanuel, Münchner Stadtmuseum, 5.8.-3.10.1976, Munich 1976.
  • Parish, Hermine from: “The Museum and its Collections - v. Parish Costume Research Institute”, Bayerland magazine, title: Das Münchner Stadtmuseum, Munich, year 84, January 1, 1982, no. 1, p. 42 -44.
  • Parish, Hermine from: "Library and Documentation of the Parish Costume Research Institute in Munich", in: Bayern BFB, ed. vd General Directorate of the Bavarian State Libraries, Munich / New York / London / Paris, 18th year, 1990, pp. 302–311.

Web links

Individual evidence