Bremen costume (17th century)
The Bremen costume in the 17th century
If one speaks of a traditional costume today , then in the true sense of the word it means folk costumes that were worn in Germany by the “peasant” rural population into the 20th century . Detailed information on this topic can be found under: Tracht (clothing)
With the term "Bremer costume" in Bremen , however, a civil clothes ( fashion ) have meant that the dresses regulations and chronicles of the 17th century describes the city.
The shape and appearance of these clothes clearly showed urban features (Dutch influence), which were laid down in great detail in the dress codes of the 16th and 17th centuries for the various classes. Style elements from the fashion of the time flowed into the Bremen costume again and again, but without changing the actual character and appearance. In old records it is said that the overall effect of the Bremen costume looked very rich and graceful. After the middle of the 17th century, however, this traditional costume was no longer part of everyday life in Bremen, as it was gradually "out of use".
In 1656, the Bremen chronicler Peter Koster documented with illustrations "how the women walked around in their old Bremen costumes". These images can be found today in many history books and chronicles of the Free Hanseatic City of Bremen.
The women's costume
The costume included a black or red skirt that was worked in folds and that could be trimmed with several black velvet stripes, depending on the level of the wearer.
If two skirts were worn one on top of the other, the upper skirt, which was shorter than the lower one , was fitted with a lacing , the breast cloth of which was elaborately worked and over which broad cords (so-called snörlitzen) crossed, through which chains were looped. In the richer classes, these chains were made of silver and, like a long hanging jewelry belt, were part of the splendid decoration of clothing.
A white apron , worn more for decoration than protection, completed the image of the Bremen costume. The finer and more transparent the woven linen , the wealthier the family from which the wearer came.
A sleeve jacket made of black silk damask with extremely lush sleeve buffers formed the top.
The large Mühlensteinkrause , which can also be found in fashion at the time, is typical of this type of Bremen costume .
The hip of the wearer was emphasized by the so-called " woman's bacon ", a ring-shaped bulge filled with tow .
At this costume flat rotbestickte were slip shoes worn. To Auszier also a fur-trimmed belonged Muff .
The clothing described had something solid and down-to-earth at the same time. The materials used were always of heavy, durable and precious quality.
When, after the Peace of Westphalia , the French fashions came up, so does the Bremer women of fashion dressed appropriately, "by never knew what the new fashions would take one day."
Headgear
The woman from Bremen wore a large black ear hood on particularly high festive days and special occasions, which was called "pearl bintze" in Bremen. The shape of this bonnet was conical, with a tapering head part that was richly embroidered with black pearls . All around it was trimmed with fur .
Tiphoike
The characteristic of the Bremen costume was the tiphoike . This black coat, which was hung over the head and could therefore also be called a head coat, only covered the arms of the women from the lower classes; For women from the upper class, however, it was as long as a dress and had a long horn or a high tassel on the head.
literature
- Uta Bernsmeier: rain dress and traditional Bremen costume . Published in: Bremen and the Netherlands . 1995/1996 yearbook of Wittheit zu Bremen, Bremen 1997
- Focke Museum: A touch of elegance - 200 years of fashion in Bremen . Handbook for the special exhibition from October 7, 1984 to February 3, 1985 in the Bremen State Museum for Art and Cultural History, Bremen 1984
- Focke Museum: Art and civic glamor in Bremen . Hauschild Verlag , Bremen 2000
- Alfred Löhr: Two women's costumes from Bremen around 1658 . In: Bremisches Jahrbuch , Volume 56, Bremen 1978, p. 11ff.
- Friedrich Hottenroth : German folk costumes from the XVI. Century to around the middle of the 19th century . Frankfurt am Main 1900
- Werner Kloos : The Bremerin - portraits and illustrations from the collections of the Focke Museum . Carl Schünemann Verlag, Bremen 1965 (1st edition)
- Johann Georg Kohl : Episodes from the cultural and art history of Bremen . Original edition published by C. Ed. Müller, Bremen 1870
- Regional Association Westphalia-Lippe: Hart & Zart - The costume dolls of the Young German Order . Munster 2003.
- Peter Koster: Chronicle of the Imperial Free Imperial and Hanseatic City of Bremen 1600–1700 . Edition Temmen, Bremen 2004, ISBN 3-86108-687-5 .
- Ingrid Loschek : Reclams Mode & and Costume Lexicon , Verlag Philipp Reclam jun., Stuttgart 1999.
- Regulations of the Bremen Council : Regulations of a Ehrenvesten Hochweise Raths of the city of Bremen / how it should be kept with the clothes, engagements, weddings, christenings and funerals . Bremen Anno M.DC.LVI. (1656), State Archives Bremen.
- Herbert Black Forest : Bremen in the 17th century. Glory and misery of a Hanseatic city . Edition Temmen, Bremen 1996, ISBN 978-3861085263 .
- Herbert Black Forest: The Great Bremen Lexicon . Edition Temmen, Bremen 2003.
- Erika Thies: In search of the lost costume , special page, published in Bremer Weser-Kurier on December 5, 1992, number 282, page 25.
Imagery
- The Bremen State Museum for Art and Cultural History ( Focke Museum ) has various portraits and pictures of Bremen personalities in its collections, on which one can study the Bremen costume more closely.
- Representation of the city of Bremen with wedding procession , 1618, unknown painter
- Wedding procession in front of the Roland , 1661, J. Landwehr
- Christina Graevaeus , 1636, W. Heimbach
- Gesche Meier , 1652 unknown painter
- Margarete Schweling , 1664, F. Wulffhagen
- The Bremen State Archives contain the old chronicles of Peter Koster, which are provided with various drawings and illustrations.
- Wedding procession in front of the cathedral
- Bremerin with Tiphoike , 1656, P. Koster
- Woman from Bremen with pearl bintze , 1656, P. Koster
Collections
- Bremen State Museum for Art and Cultural History ( Focke Museum )
- Doll of Rebecca von Post from 1763
- Pearl bead
- The collection "The costume dolls of the Young German Order", holdings in the Historical Museum of the City of Bielefeld
- Doll of Bremen citizen with pearl bintze
- Doll of Bremen citizen with Tiphoike