Duxelles

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Preparation of duxelles

Duxelles is a spicy farce made from very finely chopped, pureed or ground mushrooms (usually mushrooms ). The mushroom juice is squeezed out using a fine-hole potato press or a cloth. It can be added back to the end product. The ingredients are braised in butter or cooking oil until they are soft and the liquid has evaporated. It can be supplemented with Madeira , garlic , sour cream or parsley . In some recipes, minced smoked meat , tomato paste and thick sauce ( demiglace ) also play a role for binding.

Duxelles are used to give meat and onion fillings , sauces and dips an intense mushroom flavor; It can also be used as a garnish or to crust all types of meat . When roasting whole poultry , the duxelles can also be spread under the skin. A classic Duxelles dish, for example, is the Filet Wellington .

Duxelles is also the basis of the Duxelles sauce . For this purpose, chopped herbs are reduced with white wine , strained and finally completed with duxelles.

origin

The name "Duxelles" supposedly goes back to one of the most important cooks of the 17th century, François-Pierre de La Varenne , who is said to have named this farce after his employer, the Marquis d'Uxelles . La Varenne's cookbooks, however, do not contain a recipe for duxelles, nor does the term even appear in them.
Recipes from the 18th century with the addition of à la Duxelles did not contain mushrooms, but typically crayfish .

Historical development

From the 19th century onwards, there was a change in meaning. The French author Beauvilliers first described a Duxelles recipe with mushrooms as “La Ducelle” in 1814, which was now a mushroom sauce. The Cuisinier impérial contained a similar sauce recipe called “La Durcelle” around 1820, and Marie-Antoine Carême called a sauce with mushrooms “Sauce à la duxelle” in 1830. At the time of Auguste Escoffier , around 1900 it became a set called "Duxelles sèche" ( German  , dry Duxelles' ).
It was only in the course of the 20th century that the standard preparation known today can be identified as a farce.

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ^ A b Alan Eaton Davidson : Duxelles. In: The Oxford Companion to Food. 2nd. ed., Oxford 2006, p. 264.