Flamenco dress

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Group of festively dressed women in flamenco dresses

A flamenco dress ( Spanish traje de flamenca ) is a tight, long dress that is worn by flamenco dancers at their performances, but also generally on festive occasions in Andalusia . It is symbolic of Andalusian culture and fashion.

Characteristic features

Flamenco dancer in Bata de cola and with Mantón de Manila

The most common model goes down to the ankle and is cut close to the waist. It is produced in bright colors, both monochrome and printed in color. A common pattern consists of dots in a strong color contrast to the background. Flower patterns are also common.

The fabrics used are light. Most commonly used are cotton fabrics such as percale and cotton poplin , batiste and gauze . The dress is often decorated with several flounces , which can be placed on the skirt as well as on the sleeves. The voluminous dress skirts with starched flounces that were common in the past have gone out of fashion.

A version with a train , the so-called bata de cola ( Spanish : train dress ) , is often worn especially for dance .

On the other hand, the cuts of the dance costumes are usually not that tight so that mobility is not impaired. The flounces on the sleeves are smaller so as not to disturb the view of the dancer's face. The decorations are more reserved and the fabrics are flexible and particularly light.

The production of a flamenco dress is complex because of the many decorations. Until the 1970s, this was done exclusively by hand in smaller garment factories. The work requires a high level of manual skill. Since the 1970s, industrial companies have also been producing off-the-shelf goods at lower prices.

Complementary clothing and jewelry

Group of flamencas with scarfs, flowers and earrings

The wearer often complements her clothing with a scarf or cape with fringes, typically with the Mantón de Manila . A simplification are fringes that are sewn directly to the neckline of the dress. The hair is adorned with one or more flowers, the hair usually for Dutt be tied or braided. Jewelry combs and hair clips are also common. The exposed ears are adorned with large earrings . Bracelets and necklaces made of corals, pearls or large artificial pearls in bright colors complement the jewelry.

In addition, women wear shoes with low or high heels. Especially when it comes to flamenco dancing, closed-toe shoes or ankle boots with half-high block heels are the footwear of choice for mastering the fast-paced foot techniques, the zapateados .

The male partner wears the Traje corto , a tightly cut vest , with dark trousers .

history

Francisco Iturrino : Fiesta en el campo , 1902

The origins of the flamenco dress are uncertain. Graphics from the beginning of the 19th century depict regional rural folk costumes: silk skirt and lace flounces, narrow waist, scarf and floral decorations in these depictions already show similarities to corresponding elements of today's flamenco costume. In the second half of the 19th century, this so-called Maja dress was adopted by the Gitanas . They were simple percale dresses adorned with flounces. Around the turn of the century, the richer classes copied the clothes they had seen on the sellers in the markets. The woman wore a headdress and a cape or scarf with the tailored flounce dress. From 1920, fashion developments gained momentum.

In 1929 this costume became trendy for the Seville fair. Every year in April it has been worn at this feria ever since .

In the 1960s, under the influence of the miniskirt , the dresses were partly shortened to the knee. Influenced by pop culture , polyester or nylon fabrics with psychedelic prints came into fashion. The lace and ribbons of the flounces disappeared. From the 1970s, women returned to the traditional length down to the ankles. A part of the youth rejected this costume in those years. However, at the end of that decade, it became popular again across Andalusia.

In the 1980s, molds from the 1940s were used. The clothes became more voluminous. They were strengthened again and tied with lace and satin ribbons. The sleeves have been shortened and decorated with ruffles . In the 1990s, clothes became lighter, fragrant and sensual again. They were decorated less lavishly. The waist and the flounces have been set lower. Sleeveless models and those with strapless empire necklines became fashionable.

The fashion designers Victorio & Lucchino and Yves Saint Laurent created their own flamenco collections in 2005. Even John Galliano , Valentino and Tom Ford were inspired by flamenco dress for her collections.

The Salón Internacional de la Moda Flamenca ( SIMOF ) has been held every year since 1995 in the Palacio de Congresos y Exposiciones in Seville. At the beginning of the year, established fashion designers and young talents present their new models and their accessories. At the 2018 Salón , more than 50 fashion designers presented a total of 1,500 models.

According to a 2001 survey by the Seville City Council, 58% of households had one or more women wearing flamenco clothing.

References and comments

  1. ↑ Sic. The Spanish word flamenca describes the woman who wears it.
  2. ↑ a b c d e f g h Rosa María Martínez Moreno: Vestirse de flamenca o por la tradición llegó la gracia. Un recorrido histórico de la indumentaria flamenca . In: Andalucía en la Historia . No. 26 , ISSN  1695-1956 .
  3. ^ Francisco de Sousa Congosto: Introducción a la historia de la indumentaria en España . AKAL, Madrid 2007, ISBN 978-84-7090-429-5 , pp. 289 .
  4. ^ A b María Carmen García Morillo: Una tradición a la moda: El traje de flamenca. In: Blog de la Cultura y el Patrimonio Histórico. Junta de Andalucía, April 28, 2018, accessed March 10, 2019 (Spanish).
  5. ↑ Fátima Franco: La bata de cola en el baile actual . In: La nueva Alboreá . No. October 12 , 2009, p. 38–39 (Spanish, juntadeandalucia.es [accessed March 11, 2019]).
  6. ^ A b Ana María Cerezo Gallero: La industria cultural del flamenco: Aspectos económicos y fiscales . PhD thesis. Universidad de Málaga, Málaga 2015 (Spanish, uma.es [PDF; accessed March 11, 2019]).
  7. ↑ a b José Ignacio Castillo Manzano, Lourdes López Valpuesta et al: Análisis Económico y Prospectiva de la Moda en Sevilla . Ayuntamiento de Sevilla, Sevilla 2005 (Spanish, docplayer.es [accessed March 11, 2019]).
  8. ↑ Àngels: Cómo es el traje regional de Andalucía. In: artes.uncomo.com. January 21, 2017, Retrieved March 11, 2019 (Spanish).
  9. ↑ Spanish: modelo de maja
  10. ↑ a b Feria de April: trajes de flamenca. In: www.altur.com. Archived from the original on May 1, 2010 ; accessed on March 11, 2019 (Spanish).
  11. ↑ Susana Navalós: Dos tendencias que Rompen. In: esflamenco.com. 2005, archived from the original ; Retrieved June 19, 2008 (Spanish).
  12. ↑ Rocío Ponce: SIMOF 2018: novedades y programación de la edición 24 de la pasarela de moda flamenca. In: ABC. February 2018, accessed March 11, 2019 (Spanish).
  13. ↑ El Ayuntamiento resalta la repercusión cultural, turística, económica y laboral de SIMOF en un año repleto de eventos culturales como la Bienal de Flamenco y el Año Murillo. In: www.sevilla.org. Ayuntamiento de Sevilla, January 26, 2018, accessed March 11, 2019 (Spanish).

Web links

Commons : Flamenco dressed women  - Collection of images, videos and audio files