Haramosh
| Haramosh | ||
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 Haramosh (mountain peak in the background) from Nanga Parbat seen from |
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| height | 7406 m | |
| location | Gilgit-Baltistan ( Pakistan ) | |
| Mountains | Rakaposhi Haramosh Mountains ( Karakoram ) | |
| Dominance | 18.04 km → Malubiting | |
| Notch height | 2286 m ↓ Haramosh La ( 5120 m ) | |
| Coordinates | 35 ° 50 '29 " N , 74 ° 53' 52" E | |
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| First ascent | August 4th 1958 by Heinrich Roiss , Stefan Pauer , Franz Mandl | |
| Normal way | glaciated alpine tour | |
The Haramosh (also: Haramosh peak , peak 58 ) is a mountain in the Karakoram -Gebirge in Pakistan .
location
Its height is given as 7390 m or 7406 m meters.
The Haramosh forms the central-southern link of the Rakaposhi Haramosh Mountains in the "Lesser Karakoram". It rises steeply from the north bank of the Indus , about 30 km above the confluence of the Gilgit River . The Malubiting ( 7458 m ) rises 18 km further north . The Mani Glacier flows westward along the northern flank of the Haramosh . The southeast flank is drained via the Khotialungma glacier , while the Ishkapal glacier lies on the southwest flank .
Minor peaks
A ridge leads from the Haramosh to the east and later to the northeast. The Mani Peak IV ( 6449 m ⊙ ) and the Mani Peak I ( 6684 m liegen ) lie on this ridge, which then descends to an altitude of 5700 m and then rises again to the 6666 m high Haramosh II . North of Mani Peak I is the Haramosh La saddle .
Ascent history
The Haramosh was first explored by a Swiss expedition in 1947, and a German team investigated the northwest route in 1955. In 1957, a group of climbers from Oxford University with Tony Streather , John Emery, Bernard Jillot and Ray Cuthbert tried in vain to attempt a first ascent, which had to be canceled after repeated falls and accidents. Jillot and Cuthbert were killed, Streather and Emery survived, Emery suffered severe frostbite and lost all fingers and toes. Ralph Barker recorded the story of this expedition in "The Last Blue Mountain" .
The first ascent of the Haramosh was finally achieved on August 4, 1958, by a rope team of Austrians with Heinrich Roiss , Stefan Pauer and Franz Mandl over a saddle in the northeast, the Haramosh La and the eastern flank, i.e. about the same route as the failed ascent of 1957. Others Expedition members were Rudolf Ebner and Rudolf Hammerschlag . As part of the preparations, the side peaks Mani Peak I , Mani Peak II and Mani Peak IV were climbed.
According to the Himalayan Index, there have only been three further ascents since then: a Japanese group on the western flank in 1978, an ascent with an unknown route and origin in 1979, and a Polish group on the southwestern frontal side in 1988.
swell
- High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Meter Peaks by Jill Neate, ISBN 0-89886-238-8 .
- The Last Blue Mountain by Ralph Barker, Ripping Yarns, ISBN 1-904466-30-3 .
Web links
- Haramosh on Peakbagger.com (English)
- Thomas Zeller: Film with the first climbers of the Haramosh with film material by Stefan Pauer , accessed on December 15, 2011
- Image of the south elevation of the Haramosh
- A list of the steepest peaks in the world
- Map at himalaya-info.org
Individual evidence
- ^ High Asia - All mountains and main peaks above 6750 m at www.8000ers.com, accessed July 26, 2011
- ^ Himalaya, Pakistan, Haramosh . American Alpine Journal, 1959, vol. 11.
- ^ A b c Heinrich Roiss: 1958 Austrian Expedition the Ascent of Haramosh . Himalayan Journal, 1958, vol. 21st
- ^ Himalayan Index