Karl Lugmayer (mountaineer)

Karl Lugmayer (born April 24, 1926 - March 2014 ) was an Austrian mountaineer and author.

biography

Lugmayr grew up in Wolfern near Steyr in Upper Austria and was drafted into the Wehrmacht at the age of 18 , where he was deployed in northern France in 1944. He was captured during a British tank attack and spent two years in prison camps in Belgium and England. After his release, he studied physics for six semesters in Vienna and began climbing difficult Alpine routes in 1949, some of them with the American Allen Steck .

He also started gliding and received his private pilot license in 1958. He then worked for Swissair at Vienna Airport , where he played a major role in building up the cargo business. He had been retired since 1986.

Lugmayer was married and the father of five children.

Mountain rides (selection)

• 1949: 5th ascent of the Civetta Northwest Face ("Comici Route")
• 1949: Grossglockner north face (" Direttissima ")
• 1949: Great Zinne north face ("Comici Route")
• 1949: Däumling-Ostkante
• 1950: Eiger north-east face
• 1950: 1st winter ascent of the Schermberg north face ("Linzerweg") with Karl Blach
• 1951: Solo ascent of the Punta Pioda ridge
• 1952: Piz Badile north-west face
• 1952: 1st solo ascent of the Dent d'Hérens north face
• 1952: 9th ascent of the north face of the Eiger with Hans Ratay and Erich Vanis
• 1954: 2nd ascent of Nevado Rasac (6,018 m) with Heinrich Klier
• 1954: 1st ascent of the Nevado Sarapo (6,047 m) with Manfred Bachmann
• 1961: Kilimanjaro

Works

• Synthetic fiber ropes
• Thunderstorm in the Grossglockner north face
• Alone in the Dent Herens north face
• An experience with the nylon rope
• The winter mountain trip
• Nevado Sarapo
• Eiger north face

Web links

• The great summiteer
• Personal folder on Karl Lugmayer (mountaineer) (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)
• South America, Peru, Andes