Erich Vanis
Erich Vanis (born October 4, 1928 in Vienna , † March 1, 2004 in Lienz ) was an Austrian mountaineer and author , a furrier by profession . Vanis was best known for ice climbing . The Austrian mountaineering website Bergstieg.at called him the "king of the ice walls" and one of the " gray eminences of alpine mountaineering in general.
The Gaisloch on the Rax is one of his first tours - a secured via ferrata in summer . In the following years, numerous other ice tours and mountain tours followed:
- 1948 the Pallavicini Channel ( Glockner Group )
- 1950 Lyskamm ( Monte Rosa ) north-east face ( Wallis )
- 1952 ninth ascent of the Eiger north face .
- 1960 Aiguille Verte northeast face - Couloir Couturier ( Mont Blanc )
- 1962 Aiguille de Triolet north face ( Mont Blanc )
- also many first ascents :
- July 21, 1954 western Breithornzwilling, northeast couloir (Monte Rosa), (Wallis)
- July 17, 1960 Fletschhorn north face (new route, so-called "Vienna Route")
Erich Vanis continued his alpine life in the 60s in the Caucasus (first crossing of the Besengimauer), in later years to South America in the Peruvian Andes ( Alpamayo ) and on the Aconcagua . In 1976 Erich Vanis also climbed Mount McKinley .
Erich Vanis was a participant in expeditions to several eight-thousanders :
- 1959 attempt at Dhaulagiri
- 1979 Lhotse
- 1982 Manaslu
Fonts
- In the steep ice - 50 ice walls in the Alps (1964) no ISBN
- In the steep ice - 80 ice walls in the Alps (1980) ISBN 3-405-12158-2
Individual evidence
Web links
| personal data | |
|---|---|
| SURNAME | Vanis, Erich |
| BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Austrian mountaineer, author |
| DATE OF BIRTH | October 4, 1928 |
| PLACE OF BIRTH | Vienna , Austria |
| DATE OF DEATH | March 1, 2004 |
| Place of death | Lienz , Austria |