Luca Sganzini

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Luca Sganzini (born January 30, 1952 in Zurich ; † November 29, 1979 in Morocco) was a Swiss author , mountain guide , mountaineer and pioneer of sport climbing and the scout movement in Ticino .

Life

Luca Sganzini was the son of the lawyer, politician and president of the Swiss Alpine Club and the UIAA Carlo Sganzini. He grew up in Lugano , studied law at the University of Zurich and worked as a lawyer in his father's office.

He was a cantonal instructor for the Boy Scout Association .

The passionate climber was a pioneer of modern sport climbing in Ticino, especially active in the Denti della Vecchia near Lugano and in the Dolomites . He dealt intensively with modern forms of training in climbing. As a participant in the first Ticino Himalayan expedition, he reached the summit of Pumori on October 18, 1978 . In September 1979 he received his diploma as a mountain guide.

Sganzini wrote essays on questions of alpinism and short stories, the texts were published posthumously as a book.

On November 29, 1979, he fell to his death while abseiling down the Palon de la Ajiou in the High Atlas .

The family supported the construction of a refuge in the Denti della Vecchia, the Baita del Luca, and created a foundation to promote the scouting movement in Ticino. As a reminder, friends opened a difficult route in the Denti della Vecchia, which they called Sconfiggere il Drago .

Individual evidence

  1. Defeat the dragon. In: Emil Zopfi: Poets on the mountain: Alpine literature from Switzerland. AS Verlag, Zurich 2010
  2. Luca Sganzini: Sconfiggere il Drago. Edizioni Bernasconi. Agno 1983
  3. ^ Romolo Nottaris : Ricordando Luca Sganzini. In: Die Alpen 1980, p. 72 f.

Web links