Maki Yūkō

First to climb the Eiger Mittellegigrat 10th September 1921 (from left): Samuel Brawand, Yuko Maki, Fritz Steuri, Fritz Amatter

Maki Yūkō ( Japanese 槇 有恒 , also Maki Aritsune ; born February 5, 1894 in Sendai , † May 2, 1989 in Tokyo ) was a Japanese mountaineer .

Career

Because of his growing interest, he became a member of the Japanese Alpine Club in 1914. After completing his studies in Tokyo at Keiō University , he continued his studies at Columbia University and in England.

In addition to numerous mountain tours in Switzerland between 1919 and 1921, on September 10, 1921, with his mountain guides Fritz Amatter , Samuel Brawand and Fritz Steuri, he succeeded in the first ascent of the Mittellegigrat on the Eiger . He donated a large amount of money to finance the construction of the Mittellegihütte .

In 1922 he made the first winter ascent of Yarigatake in Japan. In 1925 he and five other Japanese mountaineers and three Swiss mountain guides achieved the first ascent of Mount Alberta in the Canadian Rocky Mountains .

In 1926 he was back in the Alps - he climbed the Matterhorn over the Zmuttgrat and again the Mittellegigrat.

In 1956 he led the expedition , which made the first ascent of Manaslu on May 9, 1956.

Sources and web links

Commons : Maki Yūkō  - collection of images, videos and audio files

• American Alpine Journal 1990
• Memories of Yuko Maki by Samuel Brawand (PDF file; 74 kB)

Japanese name: As is common in Japan, the family name comes before the first name in this article . Thus Maki is the family name, Yūkō the first name.