Martin Scheel

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Martin Scheel

Martin Scheel (born December 5, 1960 in Zurich ) is a Swiss mountaineer , pioneer of sport climbing and professional paraglider pilot .

Life

Martin Scheel learned to be a telecommunications and electronic equipment fitter . At 13 he started climbing and trained with the legendary Üetliberg climbing club on Zurich's local mountain and in the Bockmattli towers in Wägital . Even during his apprenticeship, he managed several large combined tours in the Alps. As a talented rock climber, he soon became a pioneer of the new philosophy of free climbing .

He made a name for himself early on with extremely difficult first ascents, consistently transferring the new style of free climbing to routes in alpine walls. Some of his new tours are still feared today because of the few safety hooks he used.

A landmark was the Supertramp route in the 400 meter high north face of the large Bockmattliturm, which he opened with Gregor Benisowitsch in August 1980 . It still has cult status today as one of the first major free climbing routes in the Alps in the eighth UIAA level of difficulty . It took two years before top German climber Wolfgang Güllich was able to repeat it.

In 1987 Martin Scheel started paragliding and in 1989 he became a paraglider designer, test and competition pilot. From 1996 he was a coach, photographer and trainer for the Swiss national paragliding team.

In 2002 he founded his own advertising agency in Chur . He is married and has two children.

Important first ascents (selection)

  • 1980/81 Metzerstrasse 59/61 , 7a, Pelzli (Basler Jura). With Richi Signer
  • 1983, Tranquille champagne , 7b +, Petit Capucin (Jura)
  • 1980 Supertramp , 6c, Grosser Bockmattliturm , north face. With Gregor Benisowitsch
  • 1982 Eisbrecher , 6b, Graue Wand ( Urner Alps ). With Thomas Müller and Roland Heer
  • 1983 Polyquirl , 7b, Kleiner Bockmattlitum, north face. With Wenzel Vodicka
  • 1984 Amarcord , 7b +, 7. Kirchlispitze (Rätikon). With Christina Truniger, Roland Heer, G. Salamon
  • 1984 Jackdaw Jonathan , 7b +, 7. Kirchlispitze. With Christina Truniger
  • 1985 No water no moon , 7c, Schafberg . With Kim Carrigan
  • 1985 Truth of human desire , 7a, Titlis . With Kim Carrigan
  • 1986 Hannibal's nightmare , 7c, 7. Kirchlispitze (Rätikon). With Robert Bösch
  • 1988 Via Acacia , 7c, 7. Kirchlispitze (Rätikon). With Christina Truniger, Ch. Venetz, Andreas Lietha , Thomas Götz

Individual evidence

  1. Roland Heer : Climbing in times of unrest. In: Neue Zürcher Zeitung . October 10, 2002, accessed March 29, 2019 .
  2. Magazine Climbing 5/2008: This wall is occupied. Interview with Martin Scheel.
  3. Emil Zopfi : Give the rock a chance. In: Neue Zürcher Zeitung . June 24, 2011, accessed March 25, 2018 .
  4. Magazin Gleitschirm 5/2010: Martin Scheel. Team coach with passion.