Mont Vélan
| Mont Vélan | ||
|---|---|---|
 Mont Vélan |
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| height | 3731 m above sea level M. | |
| location | Border Canton Valais ( Switzerland ) / Province Aosta ( Italy ) | |
| Mountains | Valais Alps | |
| Dominance | 5.5 km → Combin de Valsorey | |
| Notch height | 625 m ↓ Col de Valsorey | |
| Coordinates , ( CH ) | 45 ° 53 '31 " N , 7 ° 15' 7" O ( 585 496 / 82289 ) | |
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| First ascent | 1779 by monks from the St. Bernard Hospice and hunters from Bourg-Saint-Pierre | |
| Normal way | Across the Valsorey Glacier from the Cabane du Vélan ( WS , Passages II ) | |
The Mont Vélan is a 3731 m high mountain in the western Pennine Alps . The border between Switzerland and Italy runs over the main summit . It is located in the Italian province of Aosta and the Swiss canton of Valais .
As a secondary peak , the mountain then includes the Pétit Vélan , 3202 m , and Mont de la Gouille , 3212 m to the north and northeast of Switzerland , as well as the Les Rayons de la Madelaine , 3051 m, on the border ridge west of the Great St. Bernhard and east to the Col de Valsoray (in the direction of the Grand Combin ( 4314 m )) the Mont Cordine , 3329 m . To the south, the Mont Vélan drops over 1000 m with a steep wall, in the north it is glaciated by the Valsorey glacier and the Tseudet glacier.
Routes to the summit
The starting point for an ascent is the Cabane du Vélan (2569 m) on the north moraine of the Tseudet glacier . The hut is best reached from Bourg-Saint-Pierre .
The normal route leads from the hut over the Tseudetgletscher and finally rocks ( WS , II. Level of difficulty ) to the Col de la Gouille (3150 m). From this gap in the pass you descend onto the Valsorey glacier and use it to reach the summit.
In winter, this tour can also be used as a ski tour .
From the Col de la Gouille, you can also climb the north-east ridge (Arête de la Gouille) to the summit (WS, II. Level of difficulty).
One of the most beautiful climbs to the summit leads over the north-northwest ridge (Arête Tseudet). The starting point is again the Cabane du Vélan, from there you climb into the Col Tseudet (3169 m) and now over the ridge to the summit (ZS, III. Degree).
First ascent
The Mont Vélan was probably first climbed on August 31, 1779 by Laurent-Joseph Murith (1742-1816), prior of the hospice on the Great St. Bernhard , and two hunters from Bourg-Saint-Pierre.
The first ascent of the northeast ridge took place on September 3rd, 1872 by HJ Leaf, Walter Leaf with the guides Hans Baumann and Daniel Bich.
The north-northwest ridge was first climbed on August 18, 1897 by WB Anderson, T. Ashby, CL and TG Longstaff with the guides Joseph Georges, Jean Maître and Pierre Maurys.
literature
- Maurice Brandt: SAC guide «Walliser Alpen» 2, from the Great St. Bernhard to Col Collon . SAC publishing house 1999.
Web links
- Mont Vélan on the ETHorama platform
- Description of a ski tour on Mont Vélan on bielefeldt.de
- Panorama from Mont Vélan on gipfelderschweiz.ch
Individual evidence
- ^ Hermann Biner: Mountaineering in Wallis, From Trient to the Nufenen Pass . SAC-Verlag 2002, p. 109.
- ↑ Douglas W. Freshield: Horace-Bénédict de Saussure . Slatkine, Geneva 1989, ISBN 2-05-101045-5 .
- ↑ First ascent of Mont Vélan on schweizerseiten.ch