Monte Leone

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Monte Leone
Monte Leone from the east

Monte Leone from the east

height 3553  m above sea level M.
location Canton of Valais ( Switzerland ) / Province of Verbano-Cusio-Ossola ( Italy )
Mountains Leone group in the Alps
Dominance 11.75 km →  Fletschhorn
Notch height 1144 m ↓  Albrunpass
Coordinates , ( CH ) 46 ° 14 '58 "  N , 8 ° 6' 36"  O ( 651.78 thousand  /  122216 ) coordinates: 46 ° 14 '58 "  N , 8 ° 6' 36"  O ; CH1903:  651,780  /  122216
Monte Leone (Leone Group)
Monte Leone
First ascent July 1859, by unknown Swiss officers
Normal way South ridge ( easy , grade II )
particularities Group highest peak
Monte Leone (far left in the picture) from the Simplon Pass.

Monte Leone (far left in the picture) from the Simplon Pass.

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Template: Infobox Berg / Maintenance / BILD1

The Monte Leone is 3553.4  m above sea level. M. the highest mountain in the Leone group named after him . The border between the canton of Valais ( Switzerland ) and the province of Verbano-Cusio-Ossola ( Italy ) runs over the summit .

To the west it drops with the Chaltwasser glacier towards the Simplon Pass , which is about five kilometers to the west. The Alpjer glacier lies on the south side. To the east it drops with a 1000 m high rock face to Lake Avino ( 2246  m slm ).

Routes to the top

The normal route to the summit leads over the south ridge. The starting point is either the Simplon Pass or the Monte Leone Hut ( 2848  m ). You climb over the Homattu Pass ( 2867  m ) to the Homattu Glacier and over this into the Breithorn Pass ( 3360  m ), which separates Monte Leone from the 3438  m high Breithorn . From the pass the route follows over the Alpjer glacier to the south ridge and over this to the summit ( easy , places II. Degree ). A glacier-free ascent via the south ridge is possible if Alpe Veglia or Alpje is chosen as the starting point .

Another ascent leads over the west-southwest ridge. To do this, you also climb into the Breithornpass and follow the ridge directly to the summit from here (not very difficult, II degree).

In winter, Monte Leone can also be climbed as a ski tour .

Mountain range

The mountain is located in the Monte-Leone-Blinnenhorn group of the Valais Alps , which is described here separately as the Leone group (see map) . It would not have a high rank among the peaks of the Valais Alps, but here it is the highest, as it is in the entire Lepontine Alps , in which several mountain groups are combined.

Web links

Commons : Monte Leone  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. First ascent on schweizerseiten.ch and information in the SAC guide
  2. Mountain album based on Johannes Führer in Bergwelt 1980, p. 38 ff.
  3. Chaltwasser Glacier on ethorama.library.ethz.ch/de/node
  4. Ernst Höhne: Knaurs Lexikon für Bergfreunde / The Alps between Matterhorn and Lake Constance . Droemer Knaur, Munich 1987, ISBN 3-426-26223-1 , p. 166 .