Rockmaster
The Rockmaster in Arco in Italy is one of the oldest annual climbing competitions in sport climbing and is often referred to by climbers as the "unofficial world championship". It is held in the disciplines of difficulty (lead), bouldering and speed and takes place on the first or second weekend in September.
history
The rock master's lead competition has been held since 1987. In the first year it took place on modeled routes on natural rocks of the "Colodris", since 1988 it has been carried out on artificial walls. In the first two years the American Lynn Hill and the German Stefan Glowacz won . In the meantime, the Rockmaster has been relocated to the permanently installed "Climbing Stadium Arco", about 200 m from the center of Arco. The stadium is also used as a climbing wall outside of the competitions.
Speed and bouldering competitions have also been held as part of the Rockmaster since 1998. The bouldering competition is currently being held under the name "Sint Roc Boulder Contest".
Since 2002 there has also been "Rock Junior", a climbing competition for children aged 5 to 13 and families. This usually takes place in June.
In 2010 the Rockmaster took place as a "pre-event" in preparation for the 2011 World Championships , which will then take place in Arco , so that the participants were no longer invited, but rather nominated by the participating nations themselves. For the first time, a team speed competition was also part of the Rockmaster, in which three climbers from a team compete against other teams in a vertical "relay race". In 2011 the Rockmaster will not take place, but from July 15th to 24th, Arco was the venue for the eleventh climbing world championship.
mode
The Rockmaster is an invitation competition.
A few months before the competition, the ten best women and men currently in the lead world rankings will be invited. In addition, two “wildcards” are given each, for example to particularly talented young climbers. The lead competition is carried out in two rounds, an on- sight round (the competitors can only look at the wall briefly) and a second "after work" round (the competitors can look at and try out the route for a long time beforehand). To determine the winner, the heights reached from both competitions are added together.
Eight women and eight men are invited to bouldering. The competition itself is carried out in the KO system. With four boulders, the worst are eliminated.
Records
Two climbers were able to win the competition five times each: Lynn Hill and Angela Eiter (both in the lead). The most successful men were François Legrand and Ramón Julián Puigblanque , who won the competition four and five times respectively.
Previous winners
| year | Winner women lead | Winner men lead |
|---|---|---|
| 1987 | Lynn Hill (USA) | Stefan Glowacz (GER) |
| 1988 | Lynn Hill (USA) | Stefan Glowacz (GER) |
| 1989 | Lynn Hill (USA) | Didier Raboutou (FRA) |
| 1990 | Lynn Hill (USA) | François Legrand (FRA) |
| 1991 | Isabelle Patissier (FRA) | Yuji Hirayama (JPN) |
| 1992 | Lynn Hill (USA) | Stefan Glowacz (GER) |
| 1993 | Susi Good (SUI) | Elie Chevieux (SUI) |
| 1994 | Robyn Erbesfield (USA) | François Legrand (FRA) |
| 1995 | Laurence Guyon (FRA) | François Lombard (FRA) |
| 1996 | Katie Brown (USA) | François Lombard (FRA) |
| 1997 | Katie Brown (USA) | François Legrand (FRA) |
| 1998 | Liv Sansoz (FRA) | François Legrand (FRA) |
| 1999 | Muriel Sarkany (BEL) | Eugeny Ovtchinnikov (RUS) |
| 2000 | Muriel Sarkany (BEL) | Eugeny Ovtchinnikov (RUS) |
| 2001 | Muriel Sarkany (BEL), Martina Cufar (SLO) | Christian Bindhammer (GER), Tomáš Mrázek (CZ), Yuji Hirayama (JPN) |
| 2002 | Sandrine Levet (FRA) | Alexandre Chabot (FRA) |
| 2003 | Angela Eiter (AUT) | Alexandre Chabot (FRA) |
| 2004 | Angela Eiter (AUT) | Alexandre Chabot (FRA) |
| 2005 | Angela Eiter (AUT) | Ramón Julián Puigblanque (ESP) |
| 2006 | Sandrine Levet (FRA) | Ramón Julián Puigblanque (ESP) |
| 2007 | Angela Eiter (AUT) | Ramón Julián Puigblanque (ESP) |
| 2008 | Johanna Ernst (AUT) | Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza (ESP) |
| 2009 | Angela Eiter (AUT) | Ramón Julián Puigblanque (ESP) |
| 2010 | Ja-In Kim (KOR) | Ramón Julián Puigblanque (ESP) |
| 2011 | Jana Tschereshnewa (RUS) | Adam Ondra (CZE) |
| 2012 | Angela Eiter (AUT) | Ramón Julián Puigblanque (ESP) |
| 2013 | Mina Markovič (SLO) | Ramón Julián Puigblanque (ESP) |
| 2014 | Magdalena Röck (AUT) | Sachi Amma (JPN) |
| 2015 | Hélène Janicot (FRA) | Adam Ondra (CZE) |
| year | Winner women bouldering | Winner men bouldering | Winner women speed | Winner men speed |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1999 | Elena Choumilova (RUS) | Dani Andrada (ESP) | Vladimir Zakharov (UKR) | |
| 2000 | Natalia Novikova (RUS) | Tomasz Oleksy (POL) | Alexei Gadeev (RUS) | |
| 2001 | Corinne Theroux (FRA) | Salavat Rakhmetov (RUS) | Iakov Soubotine (RUS) | |
| 2002 | Olga Jakovleva (RUS) | Mauro Calibani (ITA) | Tomasz Oleksy (POL) | |
| 2003 | Olga Bibik (RUS) | Mauro Calibani (ITA) | Alexei Gadeev (RUS) | |
| 2004 | Melanie Son (FRA) | Matthias Müller (SUI) | Tomasz Oleksy (POL) | |
| 2005 | Melanie Son (FRA) | Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) | Tomasz Oleksy (POL) | |
| 2006 | Anna Stöhr (AUT) | Nalle Hukkataival (FIN) | Sergey Sinitsyn (RUS) | |
| 2007 | Anna Stöhr (AUT) | Gareth Parry (GBR) | Evgeny Vaytsekhovsky (RUS) | |
| 2008 | Katharina Saurwein (AUT) | Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) | Olena Ryepko (UKR) | Manuel Escobar (VEN) |
| 2009 | Alizee Dufraisse (FRA) | Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) | Edyta Ropek (POL) | Libor Roza (CZE) |
| 2010 | Anna Stöhr (AUT) | Cédric Lachat (SUI) | Cuilian He (CHN) | Libor Roza (CZE) |