Roger Schäli
Roger Schäli (born August 8, 1978 in Sörenberg ) is a Swiss mountaineer .
Life
Schäli spent his childhood and school days in Sörenberg in Lucerne. There he had his first experiences in the mountains. After completing his training as a carpenter , he graduated as a mountain guide in 2001 .
In 2002, together with Bruno Hasler and Stephan Harvey, he managed the first ascent of the Arwa-Spire central summit over the route "Fior di Vite" and the Arwa-Spire western summit. For these achievements, they were nominated for the Piolet d'Or in 2002. In March 2006, Schäli completed the Patagonia trilogy of Cerro Torre , Cerro Stanhart and Torre Egger . In 2008 he climbed the six big north faces of the Alps ( Eiger , Matterhorn , Grandes Jorasses , Große Zinne , Piz Badile and Dru ) within the first six weeks of the year and thus achieved a new record.
In August 2010 he climbed the spectacular Tsavagattaq in East Greenland to great media coverage in Switzerland .
He conquered the Eiger for the 50th time in his career in 2019.
First ascents
mountain | country | route | Co-climber | date |
---|---|---|---|---|
Arwa Spire Central | India | Fior di vite | Hasler, Harvey | May 2002 |
Arwa Spire West | India | Capsico | Hasler, Harvey | May 2002 |
Jungfrau north face | Switzerland | Weber / Schäli route | Weber | |
Torre Trieste | Italy | Donnafugata | Hainz | August 2004 |
Eiger north face | Switzerland | Magic mushroom | Hainz | September 2007 |
Eiger north face | Switzerland | John Harlin Direttissima | Jasper | October 2010 |
Eiger south face | Switzerland | Ice cream couloir | Jasper | |
Gstellihorn | Switzerland | Desperados | - | |
Morgenberghorn | Switzerland | Duodess | - | |
Schwändelifluh | Switzerland | Jaegermeister | bird | |
Reversible sticks | Switzerland | Troy | Iff, Pitelka | |
Mürrenfall | Switzerland | Redline | Leveler | |
Staldenfluh | Switzerland | Fly | Iff, Pitelka | |
Undercutting | Switzerland | Come on baby | Hunger bunch | |
Taghia | Morocco | La Mano del Maroc | Hainz | May 2005 |
Wetterstein Mountains | Austria | Black Beauty | Hainz , Kreuzeder | |
Asta Nunaat | Greenland | Tartaruga | Hainz , Fichtner | |
Tsavagattaq | Greenland | Big Wall (northeast) | Gietl, Kopp, Ulrich | |
Icefall near Gudvangen | Norway | Fossil monster | Jasper | February 2009 |
Aguja Poincenot | Argentina | Feel strong but not immortal | Gietl | December 2009 |
Staldeflue | Switzerland | FLY | Alexander Megos | June 2014 |
Devils Paw | United States | Black Roses | Gietl | May 2015 |
Honors
Roger Schäli has received the following honors and prizes
- 3rd place in the Swiss Mountain Guide Climbing Championships 2001
- 9th place Ice Climbing World Championships 2004
- 3rd place Int. Mountain Guide Climbing Championship 2004
- 3rd place Swiss Championships ice bouldering 2005
- 1st place Int. Mountain Guide Climbing Championship 2006
- Nomination Piolet d'or in Paris 2002
- Award “Silla Ghedina Appollonio Menardi”, Italy 2005
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Dossier. Roger Schaeli ( Memento from February 3, 2013 in the Internet Archive )
- ↑ a b Modesty despite top alpine performance - Roger Schäli , accessed on May 10, 2010 (archive)
- ↑ Blogging from the Big Wall. Outdoor blog from July 12, 2010.
- ↑ Samuel Tanner: He has to come through this wall. In: NZZ am Sunday , September 15, 2019, p. 43.
- ^ Eiger north face, portrait: Roger Schäli In: Focus Online . Retrieved May 2, 2012
personal data | |
---|---|
SURNAME | Schäli, Roger |
ALTERNATIVE NAMES | Schaeli, Roger |
BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Swiss mountaineer |
DATE OF BIRTH | August 8, 1978 |
PLACE OF BIRTH | Sörenberg |