Rotspitze (Rofan)

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Red tip
The Rotspitze from the south

The Rotspitze from the south

height 2067  m above sea level A.
location Tyrol , Austria
Mountains Brandenberg Alps
Coordinates 47 ° 26 '41 "  N , 11 ° 45' 13"  E Coordinates: 47 ° 26 '41 "  N , 11 ° 45' 13"  E
Rotspitze (Rofan) (Tyrol)
Rotspitze (Rofan)
rock Oberratskalk
Normal way from the Erfurter Hütte in a westerly direction to the saddle and over the north ridge
The Rotspitze seen from the east

The Rotspitze seen from the east

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The Rotspitze with an altitude of 2067 meters the southern end point of the Dalfazer walls , a continuous mountain range in Rofan , a subset of the Brandenberg Alps in the Austrian state Tirol . The mountain acts by its tooth-like shape and the steep south, east and west cliffs of colored Oberrät in the area of southern -Kalkstein Achen dominant. Due to its easy accessibility from the Erfurter Hütte and the good climbing opportunities in its solid rock faces , the top is a popular destination for climbers .

Surroundings

The Rotspitze rises in the south-western area of ​​the Rofan and forms the end point of the pronounced, north-south running ridge of the Dalfaz walls. The neighboring mountain is in the ridge, separated by a striking notch, the Yellow Wall (also called Dalfazer Roßkopf ) with a height of 2163 meters. The closest place is in the south of Maurach am Achensee, about 2 kilometers as the crow flies .

geology

See article Dalfazer Walls .

Tourist development

Since the area was populated early due to its fertile soil and the mountains are easy to climb, there are no records of first ascents. A dense network of hiking trails leads through the Rofan Mountains and the Rotspitze is easy to reach from the Erfurter Hütte , at 1831 meters north above Maurach. The normal route (easiest ascent) leads initially as an easy hiking trail in a north-westerly direction to the beginning of Langen Gasse , an elongated north-south running high valley, then west up to the saddle between Gelber Wand and Rotspitze, partly with difficulty UIAA I , then south over the ridge to the summit cross of the Rotspitze.

Climb

The Rotspitz walls have been climbed since 1913. Herbert Eichhorn single-handedly forced his way through the south wall chimney at today's difficulty level UIAA IV +. In 1917 the brothers J. and K. Hagspül climbed the south face on what is now known as the Old Way (UIAA IV +). Matthias Rebitsch opened a new path (UIAA VI-) over the southeastern edge, today called Rebitschweg, in 1931. Numerous other routes have been added since the end of the 1950s, the last two new openings in sport climbing with continuous bolt securing in 2002 with the route light chain one pitch (UIAA VIII) on the south wall and shadowy existence (UIAA VIII +) with three pitches on the north wall.

Literature and map