Sangemarmar Sar
| Sangemarmar Sar | ||
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 Aerial view of Sangemarmar Sar from the southeast |
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| height | 6949 m | |
| location | Gilgit-Baltistan ( Pakistan ) | |
| Mountains | Batura Muztagh ( Karakoram ) | |
| Dominance | 7.27 km → Pasu Sar | |
| Notch height | 850 m ↓ ( 6099 m ) | |
| Coordinates | 36 ° 25 '33 " N , 74 ° 33' 37" E | |
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| First ascent | July 11, 1984 by a Japanese rope team | |
| Normal way | over the southwest ridge | |
Sangemarmar Sar , Sangemar Mar , Sang-e-Marmar or Sangemarmur is a pyramidal peak in the Batura Muztagh, a part of the Karakoram . The name Sangemarmar ("marble") was given to it because of the yellow marble ribbon that runs through the summit. The summit height is 6949 m (according to other sources 7050 m).
Location and characteristics
It lies between the Machuhar and the Shispare (or Hasanabad) glaciers at the end of a spur ridge that runs southwest of the Pasu Sar . It owes its low level of awareness to the neighborhood of the much higher surrounding peaks, such as the Batura Sar and the Rakaposhi . Because of its location at the southern end of the main ridge and its proximity to the Hunza Valley , it has a very steep southern flank with an enormous difference in altitude from the local terrain. The height difference of 5000 m to the Hunza River is overcome in a horizontal distance of only 15 km.
Ascent history
On July 11, 1984, a Japanese rope team from Osaka University reached the main summit of the mountain over the southwest ridge. The expedition included Takashi Matsuo (guide), Hiromi Okuyama, Takehiro Hirota, Tokyo Kozuki, Masaya Oishi, Toru Sakakibara, Kenya Sato, Shinichi Miyata, Tomoyoshi Mizukawa, Hiroyuki Onishi and Akira Noguchi . All members reached the summit either on the first day or the following day. During their expedition-style ascent , they used three high camps and attached a total of 3000 meters of fixed ropes to the ice surfaces, which are up to 50 degrees steep.
According to the Himalayan index, there has only been one successful ascent of the summit so far.
Web links
- Sangemarmar Sar on Peakbagger.com (English)
- Sangemarmar Sar at summitpost.org
- Himalayan index
- DEM files for the Himalayas
Individual evidence
- ^ Jerzy Wala, Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram , Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research
- ↑ Akira Noguchi: Sangemar Mar . In: American Alpine Journal 1985, pp. 329-331 , accessed October 19, 2012.