Thomas Bubendorfer

Thomas Bubendorfer (born May 14, 1962 in Salzburg ) is an Austrian extreme mountaineer and author .

Life

At the age of 16 he climbed various difficult walls free solo . In 1980, after Reinhold Messner , he managed the second solo ascent of the Philipp Flamm route in the Civetta north-west face in the Dolomites, which at the time was one of the most difficult free climbing routes in the Dolomites, in just four hours .

In the same year he climbed the 7,105 meter high Korschenewskaja Peak in the Pamir .

In 1988 he had a serious accident during advertising shoots near his hometown in the Liechtenstein Gorge, where he fell 20 meters in rocky terrain and broke several eddies. But he was able to rehabilitate himself and found his way back to climbing.

On March 1, 2017, Bubendorfer had a serious accident while ice climbing in the Italian province of Belluno . He fell into a stream bed from a height of 10 meters and suffered a head injury, broken ribs and internal injuries. His life was temporarily in danger. On April 6, 2017, he gave an interview and was able to walk with crutches. Bubendorfer recovered completely and, 13 months after his serious crash, climbed a new route in the south face of the Grossglockner , which they named "The Third Life", together with Max Sparber and Hans Zlöbl .

successes

Outstanding achievements are the first rope-free solo ascent of the Aconcagua south face in one day in 1991 and the 23-hour non-stop solo ascent of Fitz Roy in 1986 . Also today is unmatched be "five-Walls- enchainement " in which he in 1988 purely in the Dolomites five rock faces up to VII difficulty. Through rose in one day: the north walls of the Three Peaks , the south face of the Marmolada ( "dovetail" with " Don Quixote ”exit VI +) and the north-west face (“ Via Niagara ”VI +) of the Sass Pordoi . In order to climb these vertical to overhanging Dolomite walls, which measure a total of 3000 meters in altitude, he was transported from one summit to the next foot of the wall by helicopter.

Works

• The loner , Pinguin-Verlag, 1984, ISBN 3-7016-2186-1
• Mount Fitz Roy. The quality of the next step , Orac, 1986, ISBN 3-7015-0057-6
• Solo , Lechner Verlag, 1987, ISBN 3-85049-010-6
• Vertical Against Time , Herbig, 1995, ISBN 978-3-7766-1911-9
• ZauberWorte vom Berg , Ars Edition, 2002, ISBN 3-7607-1998-8
• The force that carries us up , Coppenrath, 2007, ISBN 978-3-8157-7124-2
• Starting point now , Reich Verlag, 2007, ISBN 978-3-7243-1005-1
• Life Is Like Mountaineering , China Developement Press, 2012

Individual evidence

1. ↑ Mountaineer Bubendorfer critically injured - salzburg.ORF.at. Retrieved March 2, 2017 . 
2. ↑ news.ORF.at. Retrieved March 2, 2017 . 
3. ^ Bubendorfer out of danger to life - salzburg.ORF.at. Retrieved March 6, 2017 . 
4. ↑ Bubendorfer on crutches orf.at, April 6, 2017, accessed April 6, 2017.
5. ^ Thomas Bubendorfer climbs new route up Grossglockner after Dolomites accident . planetmountain, May 10, 2018
6. ↑ Westliche Zinne Nordwand ( Memento of the original from November 10, 2011 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. on www.bubendorfer.com . 
7. ↑ The most important solo trips and tours ( Memento of the original from September 16, 2011 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. on www.bubendorfer.com . 

Web links

• Literature by and about Thomas Bubendorfer in the catalog of the German National Library
• Bubendorfers homepage
• Personal folder on Thomas Bubendorfer (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)