Wrap dress
A wrap dress is an item of clothing made up of a one-piece combination of a skirt and a top, in which the two halves of the open front are folded over each other to close, creating a V-shaped neckline.
draft
In its classic form, the wrap dress has neither a button nor a zipper, similar to a kimono . As is usual with women's clothing, the right front piece is worn over the left one. The two halves are placed on top of each other and held in place by a belt or straps that are fastened to the side or looped around the waist . The effect is a V-shaped neckline and a figure-hugging silhouette. Occasionally, however, wrap dresses are closed with one or more buttons. With light and flowing fabrics, it can be wrapped in layers and doubled up without being bulky. A fake wrap dress is similar to this design, but is already closed at the front and slipped over the head. The skirt of a wrap dress is sometimes buttoned through to prevent it from cracking open when walking. A wrap top is a top that is cut and constructed in the same way as a wrap dress.
history
Elsa Schiaparelli was the first fashion designer to design a dress without a button or zipper in 1930 that was wrapped to close. It consisted of two halves of fabric, each with an armhole. The panels were looped around the body, right over left, and tied at the side at the waist. Their Tussore silk model was intended as beachwear. It conformed to every female body shape and was easy to put on and take off like an apron. It was so popular with buyers that textile manufacturers copied the idea for street clothing. In the 1940s, American designer Claire McCardell developed the 'pop-over' design, a wrapped dress made of gray cotton denim with a spacious pocket that was classified as workwear and was very successful. The modern woman could cook in it and look chic at the same time. Louise Dahl-Wolfe photographed a model in the 'pop-over' dress who was holding an oven glove.
However, the invention of the wrap dress is attributed to Diane von Fürstenberg , who designed the prototype in 1972, which was produced in 1974. The combination of wrap blouse and skirt has been worn before. Von Fürstenberg came up with the idea of combining the two into a one-piece dress. It should be simple and elegant at the same time. Richard Martin, former curator at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art , commented that this design principle was “deeply rooted in the tradition of American designer sportswear”. Von Fürstenberg translated it into the style of 1970s textiles and colors. Her green and white polka dot wrap dress made of a silky cotton / viscose blend, like the beach dress by Elsa Schiaparelli and the 'pop-over' dress by Claire McCardell, is one of the permanent objects of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. The design by Diane von Fürstenberg differs from earlier wrap dresses in the use of elastic fabric with synthetic fabric, which does not crease and weighs next to nothing. Her interpretation of jersey that hugs the body, always knee-length and long-sleeved, mostly patterned in light colors, was so popular and distinctive that the style was associated with it. She said that her divorce had inspired her to create the design, indicating that the idea behind it was to enable women to enjoy sexual freedom.
The wrap dress peaked in popularity in the mid to late 1970s. It was seen as a symbol of a new image of women, as the “textile epitome of self-determination”. It has been sold millions of times in the United States. It began to gain popularity again in the late 1990s, especially after von Fürstenberg reintroduced her wrap dress in 1997. It is still a popular item of clothing today, style-defining like the little black dress by Coco Chanel and the tuxedo for women by Yves Saint Laurent (Le Smoking) , and the feminist expressiveness attributed to it has remained relevant.
Well-known wearers of a wrap dress are, for example, Michelle Obama , Gloria Steinem and Kate Middleton as well as the actresses Anne Hathaway and Sarah Jessica Parker .
See also
literature
- André Leon Talley: Diane von Fürstenberg: The Wrap . Assouline, New York 2004, ISBN 978-2-84323-524-5 .
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Alfons Hofer: Textile and Model Lexicon . 7th edition, Volume 2, Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 1997, p. 1024, keyword "wrap dress, wrap coat, wrap skirt". ISBN 3-87150-518-8 .
- ↑ Beachwear. Designer: Elsa Schiaparelli, summer 1930. The Met's Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History
- ↑ Meryle Secrest: Elsa Schiaparelli: a biography . Alfred A Knopf, New York 2014, ISBN 978-0-307-70159-6 , p. 93
- ^ "Pop-over", Designer: Claire McCardell, 1942. The Met's Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History
- ^ Richard Martin: American ingenuity: sportswear, 1930s - 1970s . Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York 1998, ISBN 978-0-87099-863-8 , p. 35.
- ↑ Elke Schmitter : All our clothes , LITERATUR SPIEGEL 11/2015
- ↑ Dress. Diane von Furstenberg, The Met Collection
- ↑ Katharina Pfannkuch: Feminist Femme Fatale , Süddeutsche Zeitung, December 23, 2016
- ↑ Jess Cartner-Morley: The slip, the wrap and other cult dress shapes for summer 2017. The Guardian, May 24, 2017
- ^ Susanne Mayer: Diane von Furstenberg. Dare to do anything! , DIE ZEIT No. 42/2015 / 30. October 2015
- ↑ Anne Hathaway and the "Wrap Dress". Existently wrapped up , Süddeutsche Zeitung, October 14, 2014
Remarks
- ↑ One of the early marketing campaigns suggested that a woman could put on the wrap dress "the morning after" and leave a man's apartment without waking him. Jewish Women's Archive. "Diane von Furstenberg." (Accessed July 10, 2017)