Yukshin Gardan Sar
| Yukshin Gardan Sar | ||
|---|---|---|
 Yukshin Gardan Sar (left) and Kanjut Sar (center) |
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| height | 7530 m | |
| location | Gilgit-Baltistan ( Pakistan ) | |
| Mountains | Hispar Muztagh ( Karakoram ) | |
| Dominance | 8.65 km → Kanjut Sar | |
| Notch height | 1374 m ↓ ( 6156 m ) | |
| Coordinates | 36 ° 15 '3 " N , 75 ° 22' 24" E | |
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| First ascent | June 26, 1984 by Willi Bauer, Walter Bergmayr, Willi Brandecker, Reinhard Streif | |
| Normal way | glaciated alpine tour | |
 Hispar Muztagh satellite image; Yukshin Gardan Sar (9). |
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The Yukshin Gardan Sar is a 7530 m high mountain in Hispar Muztagh , a mountain range in the Karakoram in the autonomous region of Gilgit-Baltistan in Pakistan .
location
The Yukshin Gardan Sar is located in the northeastern part of the Hispar Muztagh. 2.5 kilometers south of the summit is the 7,330 m high Yutmaru Sar , which is separated from the Yukshin Gardan Sar by a 6650 m high saddle. Another 7.5 kilometers to the southeast is Kanjut Sar , the next higher neighbor of Yukshin Gardan Sar. According to prominence criteria , however, the mountain is subordinate to the Kunyang Chhish , which is located southwest and 16 kilometers away.
The elongated north ridge of the Yukshin Gardan Sar ends in the Shimshal valley, east of this ridge flows the Yukshin Gardan glacier , west of the ridge of the Yazghil glacier in the direction of Shimshal valley. This glacier has its nutrient area on a high plateau between Pumari Chhish and Yukshin Gardan Sar. The upper Yazghil glacier flows from the south side of the summit pyramid of Yukshin Gardan Sar and south along its southwest ridge to the west, before it turns north, leaves the ridge over an ice break and flows as a valley glacier towards Shimshal.
Ascent history
The first ascent of the mountain was achieved in 1984 by an Austrian- Pakistani expedition who reached the mountain via the Shimshal Valley and set up their base camp on the Yazghil glacier. They were spurred on by a Japanese- Pakistani expedition who also wanted to attempt the first ascent from the same base camp. The Austrians installed five high camps along the Yazgil glacier. After a few weather-related setbacks, her third attempt succeeded. Willi Bauer, Walter Bergmayr, Willi Brandecker and Reinhard Streif reached the summit on June 26th. The Japanese, on the other hand, tried unsuccessfully for a month to conquer the north ridge of the mountain, but eventually abandoned this plan and reached the summit on July 23. Tetsuei Hanzawa, Akio Hayakawa, Fumihide Saito, Akira Suzuki and Major Sher Khan, (praised by the Japanese as “the best mountaineer in Pakistan”) climbed in alpine style , on the summit they found the flags of the Austrian-Pakistani expedition. Sher Khan had already in 1982 with Reinhold Messner and Nazir Sabir the Gasherbrum II and a few days later, the Broad Peak , two of the eight thousand of the Karakoram climbed.
Web links
- Yukshin Gardan Sar on Peakbagger.com (English)
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b List of all mountains> 6750 meters at www.8000ers.com (accessed on November 13, 2009)
- ↑ Removal of Yutmaru Sar on Peakbagger.com (English)
- ^ Rudolf Wurzer: Asia, Pakistan, Yukshin Gardan Sar . American Alpine Journal, 1985, vol. 27.
- ^ Akira Suzuki: Asia, Pakistan, Yukshin Gardan Sar, Second Ascent . American Alpine Journal, 1985, vol. 27.
- ^ Rudolf Wurzner: Yukshin Gardan Sar, First Ascent. In: American Alpine Journal 1985, p. 322 (AAJO) , accessed October 9, 2012.
- ↑ Akira Suzuki: Yukshin Gardan Sar, Second Ascent. In: American Alpine Journal 1985, p. 324 (AAJO) , accessed October 9, 2012.
- ↑ Reinhold Messner: GI and G II. Challenge Gasherbrum. BLV-Verlag, Munich 1998, pp. 161-171.