Cutter
Tailor is the job title for creating patterns for clothing.
The training to become a tailor is still part of the training to become a master tailor ; it was the third and penultimate stage of the four-stage craft training.
job profile
After completing his apprenticeship and taking the journeyman's examination , the young tailor was a journeyman . He was able to process tailored pieces of clothing, inserts and linings , that is, to close darts and seams, to work in pockets , to hide and to assemble the components and to prepare the pieces for trying on.
In the men's tailor shop , two fittings were common.
In women's tailoring , which was based on a different cutting system and primarily aimed for an artistic, non-repeatable result, depending on the item of clothing . A cutting system is the method of creating the individual components of a garment. A cutting system is the process from which a (half) body development is calculated from the body measurements and thus a cutting pattern corresponding to the requirements is created.
Example:
- Modern men's cuts are constructed from the backbone (center back) to the front and end in the middle of the abdomen, women’s cuts are constructed from the tip of the chest backwards and end at the center back. This is just an example and does not apply to all editing systems.
Long-time journeyman, who had worked as a journeyman for at least three years, learned a cutting system at cutting schools , with the help of which the body measurements can be transferred to a body development. After graduating from tailoring school, they worked as tailors for no less than 3 years.
By adding to this body development, the cutter develops a wearable garment and creates a series of individual components by constructing the break , lapel , front edge , shoulder , collar , cut , pockets, over and under , slits and other details, a series of individual components that are put together, reinforced with inserts and lined result in a garment.
After the journeyman had put the fabric components together, the tailor carried out the first fitting , which checked whether the range of motion, back and waist height, length and overall effect corresponded to the tailor's ideas. For the second try-on, the journeyman lined the piece, closed the seams, opened the collar and pinned on the sleeves. The second try-on was used for the final inspection, it was also carried out by the cutter. The journeyman then finished the garment and it was ready for delivery.
After three years, the cutter was able to take the master craftsman examination. Sole masters combined all three professions and carried out all work. With the advent of ready-made clothing , the cutter gained in importance. Cutters without a master craftsman's examination were able to convert the drawings, often by non-professional and therefore unfamiliar designers, into cuts.
Cut today
With the relocation of production to low-wage countries, a large part of the model development remained in the sales countries, although the low-wage countries are able to do this work as well.
As a rule, East Asian textile producers buy up a prominent name and offer series under that name. This serves as a sales aid, but is often not involved in design, development and production.
literature
- Without indication of the author: Die Handwerksfibel - Schneiderhandwerk , HWK-Breslau 1909
- Ruth Klein: Lexikon der Mode , Woldemar Klein Verlag, Baden-Baden 1950