Almutie
The almutie ( lat. Almutia , almutium or armucia ) was part of the choir attire of the canons and beneficiaries . It is a shoulder collar that can be open at the front or closed all around. The hem can be decorated with textile tassels or fur tails .
In Arabic , al-musta-kah means a fur coat with long sleeves. In the 12th century, the almutie was first found in France and soon also in Germany, especially on grave slabs. At that time, Almutia was understood to be a head covering (cf. German hat ) that reached over the ears or a hood that was extended down over the back. Only in the late Middle Ages did the form, reduced to the collar, develop.
Eva Nienholdt wrote in 1958 that "fur is not missing in clerical costume either":
“Fur is particularly striking in the“ Almucia ”, which is rarely worn today. It is the canon 's shoulder cape made of "fur", which we encounter again and again on canons' grave tablets of the late Middle Ages with the typical "trimmings of tails" on the lower hem. This late form is the end product of its development. Originally the Almucia, which is mentioned for the first time in the 12th century, was a hood, which mostly consisted of " lambskin lined with fabric ", while the "tassels of small animals" had to be used for the "tassels."
Furthermore Nienholdt writes:
"If the canon did not put the Almucia on, then he would at least hang it over his left arm as a badge to which he was entitled, as we do, for example. B. in the picture of Jan van Eyck, the Madonna of Canon van der Paele (1436, Bruges, Mus.) See ( see picture on the right ). The fur of the Almucia was also adapted to the prescribed colors for religious clergy, so it consisted of "white or black or black lambskin". Also " ermine " is not missing as food. (With the Canons of St. Johann von den Weinbergen in Soissons, Wietz vol. 1, plate 22) "
In the Middle Ages, the almutia was often made of what is known as gray work, which is the back fur, especially of Russian squirrels (see photo and painting on the right). The religious of the congregation of St. Waast in Arras (1569) wore an almutia in the manner of a stole made of black fur , which reached down to the feet .
See also
literature
- Carl Köhler : The costumes of the peoples in picture and cut. Part Two: The Peoples of the Middle Ages. Müller Klemm & Schmidt, Dresden 1871, p. 343 .
- Joseph Braun : Almutie . In: Reallexikon zur Deutschen Kunstgeschichte , Volume I (1934), Col. 402–403; also digital in: RDK Labor [21. October 2016].
- Meyers Konversations-Lexikon 1888
- Almutĭum . In: Heinrich August Pierer , Julius Löbe (Hrsg.): Universal Lexicon of the Present and the Past . 4th edition. tape 1 . Altenburg 1857, p. 345 ( zeno.org ).
Web links
Individual evidence
- ^ Friedrich Kluge : Etymological dictionary of the German language . 21. unchang. Edition - Berlin. New York: DeGruyter 1975, p. 497 sv "Mütze"
- ↑ Thomas Lentes: Almutia . In: Missa Medievalis . Westfälische Wilhelms-Universität Münster.
- ↑ Joseph Braun : The liturgical vestments in the present and past. A manual of paramentics. 2nd improved edition. Herder, Freiburg im Breisgau a. a. 1924, p. 204, ill. Also: Riehentalsche Chronik, p. 11, p. 20.
- ↑ a b Eva Nienholdt: Fur on Herrscherornat to secular as well as religious and spiritual Amtstrachten. In: The fur trade. Writings for fur customers and the fur industry. Vol. 9, H. 3, 1958, ZDB -ID 1008085-5 , pp. 136-137.