Arthur Arbesser

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Arthur Arbesser (born 1983 in Vienna ) is an Austrian fashion designer and entrepreneur who lives and works in Milan .

He is considered the “rising star” of women's fashion and has been the creative director of the traditional Italian brand Fay since 2017 .

life and work

Arbesser grew up in Vienna. His parents are a lawyer and a pharmacist. At 13 he was “quite a nerd at opera ”, he said himself . He completed his fashion design studies at St Martin's College in London and worked for seven years for Giorgio Armani , who jokingly called him "ballerino" (dancer). In 2012 he started his own business in Milan, and showed his first collection in February 2013 at the Milan Fashion Week . His work has been or is distributed by Penelope, Opening Ceremony (Tokyo), Both and www.thecorner.com.

His work is colorful and heavily influenced by geometry. Critics attribute his penchant for linearity, formal rigor and ornamentation to his hometown Vienna, Art Nouveau , the Wiener Werkstätte , to Klimt , Schiele , Kokoschka , Koloman Moser and Otto Wagner . He experiments with unusual materials, often described as high tech materials. Although his designs are quite noticeable in everyday life, they are considered to be wearable. Arbesser has a particular interest in contemporary art and architecture.

In June 2015 he succeeded Alexis Martial as designer of women's fashion for the Iceberg label . On the occasion of his appointment, fashion critic Dhani Mau described him as a “rising star in his own right.” He resigned from this position the following year. He developed frameless glasses for the German eyewear company Silhouette . He teaches at the Venice Fashion University. Since 2017 he has been the creative director of the Italian fashion brand Fay . His own Spring 2019 Collection was significantly influenced by the Italian sculptor Fausto Melotti .

He received several awards. His influential supporters include Suzy Menkes and Phoebe Philo .

In 2018 Arbesser was invited by the Vienna Philharmonic to design the costumes for the ballet interludes for the 2019 New Year's Concert . Christian Thielemann conducts the choreography by Andrey Kaydanovskiy . The concert is broadcast in 95 countries and generally reaches 50 million viewers worldwide. Arbesser's predecessors in this role include Vivienne Westwood and Valentino Garavani .

Quote

"With the stage you learn how important the costume is and how much it can support the whole person and emphasize the character."

- Arthur Arbesser : Armani's “Ballerino” remixes the New Year's Concert, ORF, December 30, 2018

Awards

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. Arthur Arbesser: My mother also wears my fashion ( Der Standard , 2018)
  2. ORF : Armani's “Ballerino” remixes New Year's Concert , December 30, 2018
  3. the Blonde Salad: DESIGNER 2 KNOW: ARTHUR ARBESSER , accessed December 31, 2018
  4. Dhani Mau: ARTHUR ARBESSER NAMED CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF ICEBERG , fashionista, June 19, 2015
  5. The term rising star appears in a variety of media, including 2014 in Vogue ( designer Arthur Arbesser, a Rising Star in Milan , February 21, 2014) and in 2018 in Deutsche Welle ( Arthur Arbesser: fashion's rising star , 23 February 2018)
  6. German Design Award : Silhouette Arthur Arbesser Special Edition , accessed on December 31, 2018
  7. Luke Leigh: SPRING 2019 READY-TO-WEAR: Arthur Arbesser , Vogue, September 19, 2018
  8. ^ ORF : The Viennese who conquered Milan , October 4, 2018