Iceberg (fashion brand)

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Iceberg (usually stylized in capital letters in the logo) is an internationally known Italian clothing brand for women, men and children in the upper price segment, founded in 1974 , which was initially known for its knitted fashion with comic motifs.

Company history

1974 launched the Italian entrepreneur Giuliana Marchini, 1962 with her husband Silvano Gerani knitwear company Gilmar in San Giovanni in Marignano in Rimini was founded, as a designer, the fashion label Iceberg. With unusual colors, materials and details as well as influences from the world of art , the brand quickly gained importance within Italian knitwear fashion. In 1976 the men's collection was followed by the women's counterpart . The French fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac had already worked with Gilmar in 1975 and subsequently, from 1978 onwards, created sweaters for Iceberg with large-format images of well-known cartoon characters such as Felix the Cat , Snoopy and Bugs Bunny .

In the early 1980s, Iceberg ran the "I Contemporanei" (Eng. 'The Contemporaries') advertising campaign by star photographer Oliviero Toscani , in which - as a novelty in the fashion industry - celebrities like the photographer himself, the designer Ettore Sottsass , the Painter Mimmo Paladino , the prima ballerina Carla Fracci , the artist Andy Warhol and colleagues from the fashion industry such as the fashion designer Franco Moschino , the designer Vivienne Westwood or the fashion entrepreneur Luciano Benetton were used as testimonials . In 1983 Patrizia Gerani, daughter of Giuliana and Silvano, joined her parents' company and took care of the Gerani fashion brand , which, like the History and Frankie Morello labels, belongs to the Gilmar Group. The production facility, built by Gilmar in San Giovanni in Marignano in 1985 and employing around 500 people, housed design offices, production facilities, warehouses and administration. In 1989 the first Iceberg boutique was opened in Via Montenapoleone 10 and a showroom in Milan . In the same year, the company's first perfume, Iceberg Femme, made its debut in collaboration with the Italian cosmetics manufacturer Eurocosmesi . The men's fragrance Iceberg Homme followed in 1990 . In 1991 the Iceberg Store opened in New York (meanwhile closed), in 1993 its own store in Paris .

In the mid-1990s, Isabella Rossellini , Farrah Fawcett , Sophia Coppola , Naomi Campbell and Iggy Pop modeled an Iceberg advertising campaign. During this time there was also the sporty Sport Ice bridge collection, which was later discontinued. In 1995 the American Marc Jacobs was hired as a design consultant for Iceberg, whose own second line collection Marc Jacobs Look was produced by Gilmar. Marc Jacobs moved to Louis Vuitton in 1997 . Also in 1995, the denim- based Iceberg Jeans collection for women and men was launched, which was later renamed Ice Jeans Iceberg . In 2004 Ice Jeans Iceberg was split up into the labels Ice-B (second line) and Ice-J (denim collection) and merged again at the end of the 2000s under the name Ice Iceberg as a second line next to the main line Iceberg . In addition to a leather collection for bags and shoes, Ice Iceberg has since had a preliminary and main collection per season.

Over the years, the range of accessories has been expanded to include glasses, bags, shoes and watches under the main Iceberg label, and a range of home articles and porcelain was added, called Iceberg Fragile . The perfume series was expanded to include the fragrances Iceberg Twice (1994, 1995), Iceberg Universe (1997), Iceberg Fluid (2000), Iceberg Effusion (2001) and Iceberg Light Fluid (2003), each as a women's and men's version, added. Iceberg developed into a colorful lifestyle brand. The Iceberg collections have been shown at the Milan Fashion Weeks since 1995 . From 2000, Paolo Gerani, Patrizia's brother, was the creative director for the main Iceberg collection. In 2001, Iceberg presented a David LaChapelle campaign with Pamela Anderson and Paris Hilton as models for Iceberg. Since 2001, the Iceberg collections have been shown in La Pelota, a former sports hall that has been converted into an event location in Milan. In 2002, the IceIceIceberg children's collection was launched with license partner Spazio Sei and later renamed Ice Iceberg junior . In the era of minimalist fashion, Iceberg struggled, but recovered in the mid-2000s. Since then, the company's designs have been less flashy and more subtle. At the Style Awards 2002 of the British magazine Maxim , Iceberg won the title "Best International Designer". Like the Belgian fashion company Donaldson , which has been insolvent since 2008 , Iceberg is and is also a license partner of Disney in the clothing sector and repeatedly refers to elements from the cartoon sector such as Mickey Mouse or Goofy in the collections .

From 2004 the Gilmar Group supported the up-and-coming designer Giambattista Valli, a former Hungarian designer, in setting up his own label and hired him alongside Paolo Gerani as a co-designer for Iceberg for five years. Valli has also been creating the Gamme Rouge women's collection for Moncler since 2008 . In 2006 the perfume license was taken over by Selective Beauty in Paris (renamed Perfume Holding since 2010 ) and in 2007 a new women's fragrance, The Iceberg Fragrance , was launched. The counterpart for men of the same name followed in 2009. Paolo Gerani designed the square- shaped flacons for the two fragrances. At the end of 2009, after Vallis left, a former designer for Alessandro Dell'Acqua , Prada and Dolce & Gabbana , Massimo Trumbatore, was appointed chief designer of the women's collection at Iceberg. Gerani and an in-house design team are responsible for the men's collection. Trumbatore left Iceberg in the spring of 2010. In 2013, Gilmar first appointed the Italian Federico Curradi as men's fashion designer and finally the French Alexis Martial as the designer of Iceberg women's fashion. Martial was replaced by the Austrian Arthur Arbesser in mid-2015 ; Curradi was followed at the end of 2015 by the British James Long. In mid-2016, Long took over the management of the women's fashion division after Arbesser's departure.

In 2008 there were twelve Iceberg stores around the world. In addition to Iceberg boutiques in Italy, Paris, Amsterdam, Dubai, Moscow, Kiev and Kuwait, there are Iceberg shops-in-shops in Great Britain and in the GUM department store in Moscow, as well as shops-in-shops of the Ice Iceberg brand in Great Britain, Russia, Saudi Arabia, China, South Korea and Dubai. The boutiques are partly run by partners. Showrooms exist in Milan, Rome and Paris.

Current collections

  • Iceberg - high-priced ready-to-wear fashion and accessories for women and men, each presented at the Milan Fashion Weeks
  • Ice Iceberg - fashionable second line in the upper middle price segment for women and men
  • Ice Iceberg junior - children's clothing for boys and girls, licensed to Spazio Sei srl

There are also collections of fragrances (Perfume Holding SAS), glasses and sunglasses (Allison SpA) and mineral water (La Galvanina SpA) licensed under the Iceberg name .

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Men's Health: Heisses Eis - Iceberg (February 26, 2008)
  2. ↑ Textile industry: Vuitton also makes sportswear with Marc Jacobs  ( page can no longer be accessed , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (January 14, 1997)@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de  
  3. ↑ Textile industry: Gilmar is repositioning Iceberg  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (March 18, 2004)@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de  
  4. ↑ Textile industry: Disney and Hering license partners  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (March 2, 1995)@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de  
  5. ↑ Saks Fifth Avenue: Iceberg Azzuro Mickey Mouse Sneakers (last accessed February 11, 2010)
  6. ↑ wdwprince (Engl.): Mickey Mouse Inspiration For Fashion House Iceberg (October 6, 2009)
  7. ↑ Textile industry: Valli designs Moncler Gamme Rouge  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (January 17, 2008)@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de  
  8. ↑ Textile industry: Massimo Trumbatore designs Iceberg DOB  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (October 29, 2009)@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de  
  9. ↑ Gilmar: 2013 , gilmar.it, accessed: January 21, 2015
  10. ↑ Austrian designer Arthur Arbesser leaves Milan label Iceberg derstandard.at, August 30, 2016