Emilio Comici

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Leonardo Emilio Comici (born February 21, 1901 in Trieste , † October 19, 1940 in Selva di Val Gardena ) was an Italian alpinist and cave explorer . As a cave explorer, he even set a depth record of 500 m. At the age of 24 he turned away from speleology and conquered the mountains. From 1938 until his death he was the fascist mayor of Wolkenstein.

Life

Emilio Comici was a student of Julius Kugy . He was one of the first climbers to master the sixth level of difficulty (VI). Due to his outstanding performance in the rock, the Lecces climbers appointed him to their teacher in 1933. Among his students there in the southern Grigna were some later top climbers, such as Riccardo Cassin .

Emilio Comici, who proved himself a master in the most difficult routes of his time, died on October 19, 1940, crash into the climbing wall Parei de Ciampac in Vallunga near Selva. The cause of its tragic end was the rupture of a rope loop. Today the Parëi de Ciampac is part of the Busc dl Preve climbing garden , which was set up in 1995 and is dedicated to Emilio Comici. A carved wooden monument erected there reminds of him.

Rifugio Zsigmondy-Comici

The Rifugio Zsigmondy-Comici (see also Emil Zsigmondy ) in the Sesto Dolomites , the Emilio-Comici Hut and the Campanile Comici , both in the Sassolungo Group , were named after Comici .

First ascents

Well-known routes on the north face of the Große Zinne: 1 = Dibonakante, 2 = Via Camillotto Pellesier, 3 = The Phantom of the Zinne, 4 = Hasse / Brandler (Direttissima), 5 = Sachsenweg (Superdirettissima), 6 = Comici / Dimai

During his time as a mountaineer, Emilio Comici managed almost 100 first ascents.

North face of the great pinnacle

From August 12 to 14, 1933, Comici and the brothers Angelo and Giuseppe Dimai climbed the north face (550 m) of the Großer Zinne , thus opening the Comici-Dimai route named after them . For this ascent they used 400 m of rope, 150 m of cord , 90 hooks, climbing slings and 40 carabiners. With this tour, the most coveted wall in the Dolomites was climbed. However, this purely technical hook climbing also triggered a style discussion in the mountaineering scene of that time. In the summer of 1937, Comici repeated his route alone in just 3.5 hours. At that time, the route was rated VI . Today the rating is VI / A0 (UIAA) or in free climbing VII (UIAA).

Further first ascents

  • Tre Sorelle, north-west face (his first new route in difficulty VI)

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b c d Ivo Rabanser: Reinhold Messner's climbing favorites . Bruckmann Verlag GmbH, Munich 2011, ISBN 978-3-7654-5440-0 .
  2. ↑ a b c Monuments and memorials - Alpinist Emilio Comici. Gardena.Net, accessed June 29, 2012 .
  3. ↑ Uli Auffermann: Decision in the wall . Schall Verlag GmbH, 2010, ISBN 978-3-900533-62-5 , p. 113 f .
  4. ↑ a b c The north face of the great pinnacle - Emilio Comici. (No longer available online.) In: bergsteiger.de. Bruckmann Verlag GmbH, February 2008, archived from the original on February 10, 2013 ; accessed on June 29, 2012 (article from Bergsteiger magazine 02/08, p. 88). Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.bergsteiger.de
  5. ↑ a b c Reinhold Messner: Vertical - 150 years of climbing art . 2nd Edition. BLV Buchverlag, Munich 2008, ISBN 978-3-8354-0380-2 .
  6. ↑ Salami "Comici". In: topoguide.de. topoguide.de - the interactive mountain publisher, accessed on June 29, 2012 .
personal data
SURNAME Comici, Emilio
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Comici, Leonardo Emilio (full name)
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Italian alpinist and cave explorer
DATE OF BIRTH February 21, 1901
PLACE OF BIRTH Trieste
DATE OF DEATH October 19, 1940
Place of death Selva in Val Gardena