Geny Steiger

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Geny (Eugen) Steiger (born June 30, 1927 in Walenstadt ; † March 22, 2010 ibid) was a Swiss mountaineer and mountain guide , a pioneer of extreme climbing in Switzerland.

Life

Geny Steiger started climbing in the local Churfirsten , initially with the simplest equipment and partly barefoot. Together with Hansi Frommenwiler he experimented with new material, including a. with wooden wedges. He made several first ascents in the Churfirsten, in the Alps and in the Andes . Plus the great extreme classics of that time: Walker pillars on the Grandes Jorasses , Aiguille du Dru west face, Grosse Zinne north face, Badile north east face .

The trained locksmith, chief fitter and specialist in oil firing was a mountain guide and ski instructor in his second job. «Geny Steiger made the Führer patent late and almost by accident. That is precisely why he is perhaps a mountain guide by calling and not by profession: enthusiastic and filled with mountaineering, a perfect and dear comrade, purposeful and determined in all situations, complete master of all technical problems ... This security makes him without a doubt one of the best Mountaineers of our time. " Ruedi Schatz wrote that in 1960 in his guide book, President of the KCA and St. Gallen National Council.

In 1959, Geny Steiger took part in the expedition to the Peruvian Andes organized by the Alpstein climbing club and the Swiss Alpine Club . There he succeeded u. a. the first ascent of the north face of Huandoy . In 1965 he took part in the expedition to the Cordillera Blanca under the patronage of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research , together with his wife Gaby.

With his wife Gaby Steiger- Huber, he undertook the most difficult tours and first ascents from 1954 until she had to use a wheelchair from around 1980 as a result of a medical malpractice. Among other things, the Steiger route they first started at Punta Albigna in Bergell reminds of the climbing couple.

Important first ascents (selection)

  • August 1951: Schibenstoll wood wedge tear . With Hansi Frommenwiler .
  • October 16, 1954: Rosskirche north route. With Gaby Huber.
  • June 25, 1955: Frümsel east face . With Gaby Huber.
  • November 5, 1955: Selun east summit, south pillar. With Gaby Huber.
  • September 23, 1956: Schibenstoll west summit, south face. With Seth Abderhalden .
  • August 29, 1962: Selun main summit south edge. With Gaby Steiger.
  • September 19, 1963: Frümsel southwest face. With Gaby Steiger.
  • October 9, 1965: Chäserrugg south face / south intersection. With Gaby Steiger.
  • 1962: Punta Albigna, Steiger route. With Gaby Steiger.

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Pioneers and partners: The Walenstadt mountain guide couples. In: Emil Zopfi : Churfirsten - over the seven mountains. AS Verlag, Zurich 2006.
  2. ↑ Gaby Steiger: My six-thousander is in Peru. Good writings, Basel 1975.
personal data
SURNAME Steiger, Geny
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Steiger, Eugene
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Swiss mountaineers and mountain guides
DATE OF BIRTH June 30, 1927
PLACE OF BIRTH Walenstadt
DATE OF DEATH March 22, 2010
Place of death Walenstadt