Helma Schimke
Helma Schimke (born February 16, 1926 in Seekirchen am Wallersee ; † April 7, 2018 in Salzburg ) was an Austrian architect and pioneer of women's mountaineering .
Life
Helma Schimke started climbing at the age of 13. After graduating from the higher technical institute in Salzburg , she studied architecture in Vienna (among others with Clemens Holzmeister ).
From the 1950s she and her climbing partners - including Fritz Wintersteller , Hermann Buhl , Marcus Schmuck , Christl Haas , Rudolf Bardodej - made numerous difficult mountain tours up to VI. Grad ( e.g. Mont Blanc Brenva flank and Peuterey ridge , Piz Badile northeast face, Großglockner Pallavicini channel, Maukspitze west face, meat bank southeast intersection, Monte Rosa east face). In the 1950s and 1960s she was one of the world's best female climbers . In the 1960s she was on the road as a women's rope team with ski racer Christl Haas.
In the summer of 1961 she wanted to undertake an expedition to the first ascent of Diran ( 7270 m ) in Pakistan with Rudolf Bardodej, her husband Konrad Schimke and the Salzburg doctor Georg Scharfetter . In spite of her impressive mountaineering achievements, the support of the expedition, from the point of view of the PES administration committee, stems from the participation of a woman: "The VA has fundamental, most serious concerns ... against the participation of a mother of three underage children". The expedition did not take place due to the death of her husband.
She married a fellow student after the Second World War. After the birth of their son, the relationship broke up and Schimke divorced. In 1957 she married the judge Konrad Schimke, who, unlike her first husband, shared a love for the mountains. She had two more children with him. Her husband was killed in an avalanche on the east face of the Watzmann in March 1961 . At 35, the mother of three children was now a single parent.
In 2002 Helma Schimke was portrayed by Ulrike Gschwandtner and Annette Mäser in the documentary Above All The Mountain . Most recently she worked as a freelance architect in Salzburg .
Works
- Above All The Mountain (1964)
- On Steep Paths (1961)
- Mountains. On Paths to Yourself (1986) - ISBN 3-7013-0708-3
literature
- Caroline Fink, Karin Steinbach: First on the rope - pioneers in rock and ice , Tyrolia-Verlag, Innsbruck 2013, ISBN 978-3-7022-3252-8
Web links
- Interview with Helma Schimke (PDF file; 281 kB)
- Biography in the Salzburg wiki
- Obituary notice of Helma Schimke
Individual evidence
- ↑ Salzburg mountain pioneer Helma Schimke has died. In: Salzburger Nachrichten , April 10, 2018. Retrieved April 10, 2018.
- ↑ a b c Martina Gugglberger: Mountain love in Sunday dress . In: Alpenverein Österreich (Ed.): Uphill . April 2018, p. 22-25 .
| personal data | |
|---|---|
| SURNAME | Schimke, Helma |
| BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Austrian architect and pioneer of women mountaineering |
| DATE OF BIRTH | February 16, 1926 |
| PLACE OF BIRTH | Seekirchen am Wallersee |
| DATE OF DEATH | April 7, 2018 |
| Place of death | Salzburg |