Island Peak
| Imja Tse (Island Peak) | |
|---|---|
 View from Chukung to the southwest face of the Iceland Peak |
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| height | 6189 m |
| location | Solukhumbu District ( Nepal ) |
| Mountains | Mahalangur Himal ( Himalaya ) |
| Dominance | 4.24 km → Lhotse Shar |
| Notch height | 475 m ↓ ( 5714 m ) |
| Coordinates | 27 ° 55 ′ 0 ″ N , 86 ° 56 ′ 0 ″ E |
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| First ascent | 1956 by Hansruedi von Gunten, Gyalsen Sherpa and Lobsang Sherpa |
| Normal way | over the south-east flank and south-west ridge |
.jpg) Island Peak (right of center) and Lhotse South Face (left) |
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The Island Peak ( Imja Tse , "Inselberg") is a 6189 m high mountain in the Nepalese part of the Himalayas . It is located in the Mahalangur Himal in the Khumbu region between the Lhotse south face and the Ama Dablam .
Surname
The mountain was named Shipton Island Peak by Eric because the peak sticks out like an island from the ice desert surrounding it. In 1983 it was renamed Imja Tse , but the name Island Peak is still used colloquially .
Ascent history
The first ascent took place on April 6, 1956 by Hansruedi von Gunten and the Sherpas Lobsang and Gyalsen, members of the Swiss expedition headed by Albert Eggler, as training for the later ascent of Mount Everest and Lhotse. The south-western sub-peak of the mountain was first reached in 1953 by Charles Evans , Alf Gregory, Charles Wylie and Tenzing Norgay .
Climb today
Climbing Island Peak is not considered difficult. The degree of difficulty of the normal route is rated WS ( UIAA grade II ). Due to its low difficulty and good accessibility, it is a popular trekking peak . It is therefore often the target of commercial expeditions. The expedition participants are required to be physically fit and have little mountain experience. Due to its height and extreme temperatures, the mountain is often used as training for climbing higher Himalayan mountains. The mountain is usually climbed between April – May and October – November. Due to its popularity, a permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association is required for the ascent .
From Dingboche ( 4340 m ) a marked path leads via Chhukhung to the Island Peak base camp at 5100 m . This lies between the Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja glacier. Above the base camp, the normal route leads unproblematically through scree terrain to a glacier on the southeast side of the mountain. After crossing the glacier there is a 100 m high, up to 60 degree steep incline up to a ridge. This glaciated incline is usually provided with fixed ropes and the ascent can be mastered with climbing clamps . The following exposed, not very steep ridge leads directly to the summit. Shortly before the summit, there is another short, steep ascent to overcome. The entire ridge is usually provided with fixed ropes up to the summit. From the summit you have a good view of the eight-thousanders Lhotse and Makalu . Currently (as of November 2019), the glacier basin is climbed directly over the flank to the summit, without touching the ridge.
Web links
- Island Peak, description and labeled photos at himalaya-info.org
- Description at Summitpost.org
- Tour reports at Hikr.org
- Island Peak on Peakbagger.com (English)
Individual evidence
- ↑ Geotreks.de , accessed: February 17, 2014
- ↑ Guidenepal.com , accessed December 4, 2015
- ↑ Nepal Mountaineering Association , accessed February 17, 2014