Martinswand
| Martinswand (small wall head) | ||
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 The Martinswand from the south, Kleiner Wandkopf , Kematen in the foreground |
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| location | Zirl , Tyrol | |
| Mountains | Hechenberg , Nordkette , Karwendel | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 16 ′ 7 ″ N , 11 ° 16 ′ 14 ″ E | |
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| particularities | Nature reserve , climbing area | |
The striking Martinswand (altitude of the upper edge around 1200 m above sea level ) forms the south-western end of the Hechenberg in the north chain north-west of Innsbruck in the market town of Zirl .
The mountain wall is the approx. 600 m free demolition of the Kleiner Wandkopf ( 1346 m above sea level ⊙ ). It is a nature reserve , but also a popular climbing area .
Location and landscape
The wall slopes down several hundred meters, partially overhanging, to the valley floor. In the western part of the wall there is a half-cave - the Kaiser-Max-Grotte (after Maximilian I ). Legend has it that the emperor sought refuge there after he was said to have gotten himself upset while hunting chamois in 1484 and was rescued by a peasant boy.
At the foot of the wall, which extends almost to the banks of the Inn , is the Martinsbühel Castle ( 616 m above sea level ) , a former fortress that is now used as a monastery and which gave its name to the Martinswand.
The Martinswand is crossed by the longest tunnel of the Mittenwaldbahn .
natural reserve
The area is designated as a protected area and part of the Karwendel Alpine Park .
- The Martinswand nature reserve covers the entire foot of the wall up to the Inn, from Martinsklause about 3 km downstream. The protected area measures 54.47 hectares and was protected “because of the special diversity of flora and fauna, the occurrence of rare and endangered species of flora and fauna and the need to preserve this arid site as an ecosystem”.
- the rest of the wall Martin area belongs to the conservation area tip Martin wall Solstein-Reith.
In particular, the use of motor vehicles (except for forest work), camping outside of approved campsites and any significant noise development (especially through the use of loudspeakers) is prohibited.
Climb
The wall offers a challenging via ferrata in two sections with the option to cross at the grotto (section I: C / D, section II: E) and several sport climbing routes at its foot. The classic routes through the Martinswand are (from west to east):
- Westriss (H. Köchler, H. Wagner - 1969): A2 / VI, rather brittle, is rarely committed.
- Auckenthalerriss ( M. Auckenthaler , H. Frenademetz - 1932): VI- / A0 or VII-, popular and therefore already "slimmed down" in difficult places.
- Direct Martinswand (W. Spitzenstätter, R. Troier - 1959): VI + / A0, impressive bolt cross passage in the middle of the wall.
- Schwarzenlander / Sint (this one - 1974): VI +, nice intersection climbing to the confluence with the Fiedler / Flunger.
- Fiedler / Flunger (these - 1962): VII- / A0, can be climbed again with a clear conscience since the renovation with bolts (the first climbers secured normal nails in the upper part of the wall, some of which are still stuck in the route today and from the daring of the First ascent).
- Ostriss (K. Schoißwohl, W. Spitzenstätter - 1962): VI, very popular and, like the Auckenthalerriss, already somewhat “slimmed down”.
In addition to these classic routes, difficult sport climbing routes have been developed in the area of the Martinswand grotto (e.g. Tyrolean fish breeding plates), but also in the central part of the wall. There are also several climbing gardens on the Martinswand . The most important climbing history is the jungle book , opened u. a. by Reinhard Schiestl and Heinz Zak .
literature
- Heinrich Klier, Fritz March: Alpine Club Guide Karwendel Mountains . Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, Munich 1978, ISBN 3-7633-1208-0 .
Web links
- Tyrolean protected areas: Martinswand - Solstein - Reither Spitze nature reserve
- Axel Jentzsch-Rabl & Dieter Wissekal: Kaiser Max via ferrata. Bergstieg.at, accessed on February 17, 2017 .
Individual evidence
- ↑ Ignaz V. Zingerle (Ed.): Sagen aus Tirol, No. 977 . Innsbruck 1891, p. 558 ( haben.at [accessed on February 17, 2017]).
- ↑ Ordinance of the state government of December 20, 1988 on the declaration of part of the Karwendel Mountains in the area of the state capital Innsbruck, the market town of Zirl and the municipality of Reith bei Seefeld as a landscape protection area (Martinswand-Solstein-Reither Spitze landscape protection area) LGBl. No. 29/1989, LGBl. No. 22/1989
- ↑ Martinswand - Solstein - Reither Spitze. In: tiroler-schutzgebiete.at. Office of the Tyrolean Provincial Government, Department of Environmental Protection, accessed on February 17, 2017 .