Mask (cosmetics)

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Cosmetic masks are often used for care and cleaning.

Cosmetic masks for the face are the most common cosmetic products that are used for skin rejuvenation in beauty salons, wellness facilities or at home.

Masks usually consist of semi-solid preparations with different ingredients and can be differentiated into different mask types depending on the effect, composition, type of application and removal.

history

  References to facial masks for cosmetic purposes can already be found in several legends of the Mosaic period and in the Exodus . It is said that the skin of Moses became shiny when he descended from Sinai and that he put a “cover” on his face, which made his face shine. It is not clear whether these and other writings are actually references to cosmetic masks. However, there is evidence of the use of masks made from honey and silica or from wine and mulberry juice in antiquity . After cosmetics were frowned upon for beautification, masks found their way back to Europe during the Renaissance . The first modern face mask was developed by Madame Rowley in the 18th century. It was a cloth mask that was supposed to clean the face.

use

Masks are applied to the cleansed skin according to the manufacturer's recommendations, with the eye and mouth areas usually left out generously. Since a large number of potentially allergenic substances can often be found in cosmetic masks , the manufacturer's instructions often state that people with sensitive skin should apply a small portion of the substances contained to the skin in order to detect any irritation immediately. Some masks are composed in such a way that, similar to plaster of paris , they are intended to dry or harden after application on the skin. The masks are removed after the treatment with the help of a damp cloth or by peeling off. The exposure time of the mask depends on the type and is usually based on the manufacturer's instructions. This varies from a few minutes to several hours. In principle, masks can be used several times a week as required. However, some masks (especially those that contain glycolic acid ) are unsuitable for frequent use and can cause skin irritation if used repeatedly.

Classification according to ingredients and effects

Honey is an important ingredient in some masks.

Many masks contain inorganic raw materials, such as B. kaolin and silica. In addition, aluminum hydroxide , honey and vegetable sap can often be found in the masks. The sap is a dried secretion, which consists of potassium , calcium and magnesium salts , polyarabic acid, acidic polysaccharide from arabinose , rhamnose , galactose and glucuronic acid . Depending on the desired effect, there are additional ingredients in the masks.

INCI-compliant specification of the ingredients (above) of a mask.

Eye mask

Eye masks are particularly beneficial for puffy eyes. The mask is only applied to the eye area. Some companies have also developed masks against dark circles, bags under the eyes, and irritated and overstrained eyes.

Moisturizing mask

There are particularly fast-acting masks for tired or stressed skin. These include moisturizing masks. The skin is supplied with moisture and stimulated. Often, moisture masks can be found as a transparent gel .

Healing earth mask

Healing Clay masks can be applied to skin lesions to reduce and improve the overall complexion. It has also been shown to be useful in the treatment of mild acne . To do this, the mask is mixed with jojoba oil and applied to the skin. The effect is mainly based on the drying effect, which causes the skin to absorb well. As a result, fluid flows from the inside to the outside, whereby metabolic products, cellulose and bacterial toxins are carried out of the skin and bound to the healing clay. The fine healing clay particles absorb thus tallow , clarify the pores and remove foreign matter from the skin. In addition, the jojoba oil has an antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effect .

Hydrogel masks

Hydrogel masks contain water as a dispersing agent and one or more gelling agents. They tend to dry out quickly due to evaporation of the water. To delay dehydration, the masks often contain glycerin and sorbitol . Also preservatives , alcohols or other antimicrobial substances among the ingredients to protect against contamination of the product. Hydrogel masks have a refreshing, cooling effect on the skin. This results from the evaporation cold of the water.

Paraffin mask

Paraffin masks consist of heated, liquid paraffin , which is applied evenly to the skin and hardens immediately. After the first layer has cooled down, a second layer is applied. Under the mask, the temperature gradually rises by one to two degrees Celsius. The mask can no longer radiate heat from the skin, which means that the heat builds up under the paraffin layer. As a result, the blood vessels expand, the sweat glands increase their activity and the lymph is increasingly transported into the tissue. After it has completely cooled down, the mask is left on the skin for another 15 minutes and then completely removed. After the treatment, the skin is well moisturized and looks plump and rosy.

Peeling mask

A peeling mask is used for robust and blemished skin. It is massaged onto damp skin like a peeling and washed off with warm water after a short break. It contains microfine abrasive particles such as B. crushed algae or kaolin, which smooths the surface. The peeling mask also contains nourishing substances that make the skin soft and supple.  

Peel-off masks

The mud mask is an example of a peloid mask.

A peel-off mask is a cleaning mask made from a gel composed of alcohol and polyvinyl acetate . The mask is applied with a brush and peeled off as a transparent film after the exposure time. It soaks up excess skin oil, removes loose skin cells and refines the pores. The mask is usually used on oily, blemished and large-pored skin.

Peloid masks

Peloid masks consist of organic or inorganic substances created by geological processes (e.g. moor, healing earth, pebbles, lime , kaolin, mud, clay). The mask is mixed with warm water and evenly thermally penetrates the epidermis . Peloids have the property of delayed heat release and a mechanical effect. The masks are also suitable for natural cosmetic treatments with fruits.

Powder masks

Bentonite (clay) as a natural, mineral substance often forms the basis for powder masks. The mask is made into a paste from the clay powder and water and then applied. When drying, an air-impermeable, solid mass is created, which can be removed by softening with water.

Cleansing mask

For oily skin types, in which the sebum secretion is disturbed, there are skin-clarifying, activating masks that contain yeast. The main components of yeast are vitamins B1 , B2 and B6 . These fat-free masks often have a drying and fat-absorbing effect, which opens the comedones . These masks generally also work as additional care for acne. Enzymes , glycosides , saponins , citric acid , galitannic acid and essential oils can be found in special masks against acne .

Foam masks

Foam masks are emulsions with a high proportion of moisturizing factors that are converted into foams by adding propellants. The foam is applied and the warmth of the skin causes the air bubbles trapped in the foam to burst. A tingly pleasant feeling is created and the horny layer is quickly supplied with moisture. The horny flakes swell up and the skin appears plumper and fresher. This mask is suitable for all skin types and has a particularly refreshing effect on tired skin.

Thermal mask

The skin can be freshened up with thermal masks and the facial contours are firmed at the same time. They consist of a powdery mixture of minerals and are mixed with warm water to a paste and applied. As the temperature rises slowly, heat builds up under the hardening mask, which expands the pores. The goal is that previously applied nutrients (e.g. via creams ) can penetrate better. During the drying process, the model layer is reduced in size and, in a kind of pressing effect, causes the skin surface to be ironed smooth. After a certain time, the paste has dried up and can be removed as a whole. The skin is then better supplied with blood and appears smoother and softer.

Cloth mask

A cloth mask consists of a cloth that is cut into the shape of a face and has holes in the eyes, mouth and nose. It is made from natural fibers such as cotton , coconut meat or cellulose . During production, the cloth is dipped in an intensive serum consisting of many ingredients. Ingredients include vitamins, natural oils, natural plant compounds, and acids that pamper the skin. There are different serums with different formulations, whereby the choice of the cloth mask depends on the skin type.

During use, the cloth mask is taken out of the packaging and placed on the skin so that the corresponding holes are around the eyes, nose and mouth. Serum often remains in the packaging, which can be applied to the décolleté or the neck.

More masks

You can also find masks that are used for calming and relaxation.

literature

  • Konrad Herrmann, Ute Trinkkeller: Dermatology and medical cosmetics . Guide to Cosmetic Practice. 3. Edition. Springer, Berlin 2015, ISBN 978-3-662-45116-8 ( limited preview in the Google book search).
  • Sabine Ellsässer: Body care and cosmetics . A textbook for PTA training and advice in pharmacy practice. 2. revised and expanded Edition Springer Medizin Verlag, Heidelberg 2008, ISBN 978-3-540-76525-7 ( limited preview in the Google book search).
  • Marina Bährle-Rapp: Springer Lexicon Cosmetics and Body Care . 4th revised and expanded edition. Springer-Verlag, Berlin, Heidelberg 2012, ISBN 978-3-642-24687-6 ( limited preview in the Google book search).

Individual evidence

  1. a b Mohammad Ali Nilforoushzadeh, Mohammad Amir Amirkhani, Payam Zarrintaj, Abolfazl Salehi Moghaddam, Tina Mehrabi: Skin care and rejuvenation by cosmeceutical facial mask . In: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology . tape 17 , no. 5 , October 2018, p. 693-702 , doi : 10.1111 / jocd.12730 .
  2. Konrad Herrmann, Ute Trinkkeller: Dermatology and medical cosmetics: guidelines for cosmetic practice . 3. Edition. Springer, Berlin 2015, ISBN 978-3-662-45116-8 , pp. 214 .
  3. ^ Georg Hoffmann, Hugo Greßmann: Teraphim. Masks and angle oracles in Egypt and the Middle East. In: Journal for Old Testament Science . tape 40 , no. 1 , 1922, ISSN  0044-2526 , doi : 10.1515 / zatw.1922.40.1.75 ( degruyter.com [accessed on 25 April 2019]).
  4. A brief history of cosmetics. In: SPA Society Dortmund. Massage, wellness, beauty. September 12, 2014, accessed April 25, 2019 .
  5. a b c Jessica Constanti: What is a sheet mask . In: Procoal . November 28, 2018. Retrieved January 6, 2019.
  6. a b c Sabine Ellsässer: personal care and cosmetics customers . A textbook for PTA training and advice in pharmacy practice. 2. revised and expanded Edition Springer Medizin Verlag, Heidelberg 2008, ISBN 978-3-540-76525-7 , p. 162–163 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  7. ^ Anton C. de Groot; Derk P. Bruynzeel; Jan D. Bos; Harrie LM van der Meeren; Theodoor van Joost; Berend A. Jagtman; J. Willem Weyland: The Allergens in Cosmetics . In: Archives of Dermatology . tape 124 , no. 10 , 1988, doi : 10.1001 / archderm.1988.01670100027007 .
  8. ^ Kristeen Cherney Benefits of a Facial Mask . livestrong, January 19, 2014, accessed September 11, 2014
  9. Sabine Ellsässer: personal care and cosmetics customer . A textbook for PTA training and advice in pharmacy practice. 2. revised and expanded Edition Springer Medizin Verlag, Heidelberg 2008, ISBN 978-3-540-76525-7 , p. 153 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  10. The Truth About Face Masks . beautylish, July 28, 2011, accessed September 11, 2014
  11. a b Marina Bährle-Rapp: Springer Lexicon Cosmetics and Body Care . 4th revised and expanded edition. Springer-Verlag, Berlin, Heidelberg 2012, ISBN 978-3-642-24687-6 , pp. 28, 245, 270, 312, 357 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  12. Sabine Ellsässer: personal care and cosmetics customer . A textbook for PTA training and advice in pharmacy practice. 2. revised and expanded Edition Springer Medizin Verlag, Heidelberg 2008, ISBN 978-3-540-76525-7 , p. 181–182 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  13. Marina Bährle-Rapp: Springer Lexicon Cosmetics and Body Care . 4th revised and expanded edition. Springer-Verlag, Berlin, Heidelberg 2012, ISBN 978-3-642-24687-6 , pp. 637 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  14. Marina Bährle-Rapp: Springer Lexicon Cosmetics and Body Care . 4th revised and expanded edition. Springer-Verlag, Berlin, Heidelberg 2012, ISBN 978-3-642-24687-6 , pp. 213 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  15. Larissa Meier, Rainer Stange, Andreas Michalsen, Bernhard Uehleke: Clay Jojoba Oil Facial Mask for Lesioned Skin and Mild Acne & # 150; Results of a Prospective, Observational Pilot Study . In: Forschungsende Komplementärmedizin / Research in Complementary Medicine . tape 19 , no. 2 , 2012, p. 75-79 , doi : 10.1159 / 000338076 ( karger.com [accessed April 25, 2019]).
  16. Sabine Ellsässer: personal care and cosmetics customer: a textbook for PTA training and consulting in pharmacy practice . 2. revised and expanded Edition Springer Medizin Verlag, Heidelberg 2008, ISBN 978-3-540-76525-7 , p. 145 .
  17. Marina Bährle-Rapp: Springer Lexicon Cosmetics and Body Care . 4th revised and expanded edition. Springer-Verlag, Berlin, Heidelberg 2012, ISBN 978-3-642-24687-6 , pp. 418 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  18. Konrad Herrmann, Ute Trinkkeller: Dermatology and medical cosmetics . Guide to Cosmetic Practice. 3. Edition. Springer, Berlin, ISBN 978-3-662-45116-8 , pp. 219 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  19. a b c Marina Bährle-Rapp: Springer Lexicon Cosmetics and Body Care . 4th revised and expanded edition. Springer-Verlag, Berlin, Heidelberg 2012, ISBN 978-3-642-24687-6 , pp. 423–433 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  20. André O'Reilly Beringhs, Julia Macedo Rosa, Hellen Karine Stulzer, Rosane Maria Budal, Diva sonaglio: Green Clay and Aloe Vera Peel-Off Facial Masks: Response Surface Methodology Applied to the Formulation Design . In: AAPS PharmSciTech . tape 14 , no. 1 , 2013, ISSN  1530-9932 , p. 445–455 , doi : 10.1208 / s12249-013-9930-8 ( springer.com [accessed April 25, 2019]).
  21. Marina Bährle-Rapp: Springer Lexicon Cosmetics and Body Care . 4th revised and expanded edition. Springer-Verlag, Berlin, Heidelberg 2012, ISBN 978-3-642-24687-6 , pp. 214 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  22. Marina Bährle-Rapp: Springer Lexicon Cosmetics and Body Care . 4th revised and expanded edition. Springer-Verlag, Berlin, Heidelberg 2012, ISBN 978-3-642-24687-6 , pp. 63 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  23. Marina Bährle-Rapp: Springer Lexicon Cosmetics and Body Care . 4th revised and expanded edition. Springer-Verlag, Berlin, Heidelberg 2012, ISBN 978-3-642-24687-6 , pp. 207 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  24. Marina Bährle-Rapp: Springer Lexicon Cosmetics and Body Care . 4th revised and expanded edition. Springer-Verlag, Berlin, Heidelberg 2012, ISBN 978-3-642-24687-6 , pp. 123 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  25. Sabine Ellsässer: personal care and cosmetics customer . A textbook for PTA training and advice in pharmacy practice. 2. revised and expanded Edition Springer Medizin Verlag, Heidelberg 2008, ISBN 978-3-540-76525-7 , p. 165 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  26. Marina Bährle-Rapp: Springer Lexicon Cosmetics and Body Care . 4th revised and expanded edition. Springer-Verlag, Berlin, Heidelberg 2012, ISBN 978-3-642-24687-6 , pp. 54 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  27. Marina Bährle-Rapp: Springer Lexicon Cosmetics and Body Care . 4th revised and expanded edition. Springer-Verlag, Berlin, Heidelberg 2012, ISBN 978-3-642-24687-6 , pp. 513 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  28. Marina Bährle-Rapp: Springer Lexicon Cosmetics and Body Care . 4th revised and expanded edition. Springer-Verlag, Berlin, Heidelberg 2012, ISBN 978-3-642-24687-6 , pp. 75, 373–374 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  29. Marina Bährle-Rapp: Springer Lexicon Cosmetics and Body Care . 4th revised and expanded edition. Springer-Verlag, Berlin, Heidelberg 2012, ISBN 978-3-642-24687-6 , pp. 235 ( limited preview in Google Book Search).