Oskar Buehler

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Oskar Bühler , called Ossi (born January 4, 1911 in Nuremberg ; † April 7, 2001 ), was a German mountaineer, climber, climbing guide author and inventor of the Bühler hook .

Life

At the beginning of his mountaineering career, Bühler often rode his bike to the Förrenbachtal to look at the rock faces and then climb them. At the age of 15 he joined the Nuremberg section of the DuOeAV and drove to the Alps for the first time in 1926. In 1929 he was already doing alpine tours to the Zillertal and the Wilder Kaiser . On a mountain trip in the Dolomites in 1934, when the summit was reached, he was struck by lightning, whereupon he lost consciousness. When he came to, he was only steps away from the 900-meter-high ledge. From 1926 to 1939 he gave climbing courses and headed the mountaineering group in the "Nuremberg Section". In 1933 he cycled from Nuremberg to Pontresina and climbed Piz Bernina over the Biancograt. Then he rode his bike to the Matterhorn and reached the summit via the Zmuttgrat. His best-known tour was probably going it alone through the Marinelli Couloir of the Monte Rosa east face in 1938.

In the Northern Franconian Jura climbing area , he set up the Alter Weg route in the Upper Püttlachtal on the Hohe Nase in 1939 . He managed his most difficult first ascent in 1929 with the Seifert brothers. The Seifertriss on Zehnerstein is now rated “6+” ( UIAA scale ). He managed a few more first ascents , especially in his home area of ​​the Northern Franconian Jura.

In 1949 his first climbing guide appeared for the entire climbing area of ​​the Northern Franconian Jura with 893 route descriptions. The last edition of his guide appeared in 1991 with over 4,200 route descriptions. At this point in time, Bühler was already 80 years old.

With the invention of the Bühler hook, a drill hook made of stainless steel, the civil engineer has made a significant contribution to the safety of sport and free climbing since the early 1960s. “Ossi” put the first cemented hook on May 8, 1960 on Albrecht-Dürer-Fels in the northern Franconian Jura. From 1965 he replaced the galvanized hooks with rustproof stainless steel hooks, which are called Bühler hooks.

The first hooks consisted of flat steel with a welded ring, which was later replaced by round steel. The size resulted from the desire to offer space for both a carabiner and two fingers.

Active well into old age, “Ossi” Bühler ticked well over 2,500 of his hooks in Franconian Switzerland alone .

In the 1950s and 1960s he pushed for the purchase and construction of the Egloffsteiner Hütte (today “Ossi-Bühler-Hütte”) and the Thalheimer Hütte for the “Nuremberg Section” and managed it with his wife for a total of 16 years until 1965 From 1966 to 1982 he was a board member of the Alpine Club. In 1970 he was elected 1st chairman of the Nuremberg Alpine Club Section and remained so for ten years. As a representative of the northern Bavarian sections, he was active on the main committee of the DAV for 5 years.

After founding the IG Klettern Frankenjura & Fichtelgebirge , he became involved there and was an honorary member and honorary chairman until his death.

Oskar Bühler was awarded the Federal Cross of Merit on ribbon in 1988 for his services to climbing . In his honor, an oversized Bühler hook was placed on the Plecher tower near Spieß.

Oskar Bühler died on April 7, 2001 a few weeks after his 90th birthday.

Publications

  • Climbing guide for the Frankenjura and the Fichtelgebirge with stone forest. Ed .: Oskar Bühler. 4th edition. Nuremberg, Peter-Henlein-Str. 49: O. Bühler, 1979, 339 p. (With 2,825 described climbs, 15 maps and 2 illustrations)
  • Climbing guide for the entire northern Franconian Jura 4,200 described climbs. Editor: Oskar Bühler. 6th edition. Nuremberg, Peter-Henlein-Str. 49: O. Bühler, 1991, 407 pp.

literature

  • Kurt Albert with the participation of Christian Lüke, Timo Marschner and Martin Schepers: Fight Gravity. Climbing in the Franconian Jura . Korb: tmms-Verlag, 2005, 208 pages, ISBN 3-930650-15-0
  • Obituary for Oskar Bühler: Oskar Bühler has set out on his last big ascent. In: IG climbing Frankenjura & Fichtelgebirge eV, Nuremberg - IG climbing

Web links

proof

  1. ↑ a b c d e f www.franken-wiki.de
  2. ^ Announcements of the DAV 1986, page 46
  3. ^ Obituary by Oskar Bühler at www.ig-klettern.com
personal data
SURNAME Bühler, Oskar
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Bühler, Ossi
BRIEF DESCRIPTION German mountaineer, climber, climbing guide author and inventor of the Bühler hook
DATE OF BIRTH January 4, 1911
PLACE OF BIRTH Nuremberg
DATE OF DEATH April 7, 2001