Peter Ortner (mountaineer)

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Peter Ortner bouldering in Lienz, September 2014

Peter Ortner (born September 10, 1983 in Lienz , East Tyrol ) is an Austrian mountaineer and climber.

biography

Peter Ortner grew up on a farm in East Tyrol and gained his first mountain experience at the age of 12 as a shepherd helper in the Debant Valley . At the age of 17 he started climbing with friends and in the following years developed into one of the best climbers in Austria. In 2009 he completed his training to become a certified mountain and ski guide. In the same year he won the International Austrian Championship in ice climbing.

In November 2009 he met the climber David Lama on Cerro Torre ( 3,128  m ) in the Argentine-Chilean Andes . Together with Daniel Steuerer, Lama wanted to inspect the compressor route on the south-east flank without technical aids . However, the company failed due to the weather and conditions on the mountain itself.

In 2011, Lama and Peter Ortner managed to climb the “Compressor Route” to the summit of Cerro Torre, using technical aids. They also reached the summit of the Aguja Poincenot ( 3002  m ) via the Desmochada and the Whillians ramp . In January 2012 they were the first to master the “Compressor Route” without technical aids. For this project, the two were honored with a special award at the Piolet d'Or 2013. From the resulting film material, the documentary Cerro Torre - Not the touch of a chance was produced, which was awarded the audience award at the St. Anton Film Festival in August 2014 .

In 2012 Ortner and Lama climbed the Trango Tower ( 6251  m ) in Pakistan over the difficult route Eternal Flame (IX + / X-). They also managed to climb the Chogolisa ( 7668  m ), which was the first successful ascent of this striking mountain since 1986.

In 2013 and 2014, Ortner again won the Austrian International Ice Climbing Championships. In July 2014, Ortner, Lama and Hansjörg Auer attempted the first ascent of the northeast face of Masherbrum ( 7,821  m ) in Pakistan, but this failed due to the acute danger of avalanches. In September 2014, Peter Ortner was the idea generator and co-organizer of the 1st Free Solo Masters in Lienz , an international championship in free solo climbing.

In 2018 his book BORDER: At the limit of my limits was published .

Important rock trips (selection)

  • 2008: The Nose on the southeastern edge of El Capitan with Peter Wurzer
  • July 2010: Bellavista on the north face of the western pinnacle with David Lama
  • January 2011: Compressor route on the southeast face of Cerro Torre with David Lama
  • June 2011: MacIntyre-Colton on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses with David Lama
  • August 2011: Paciencia on the Eiger north face with David Lama
  • July 2012: Safety Discussion on the Laserz south face with David Lama
  • July 2012: Eternal Flame on the southwest edge of the Trango Tower with David Lama
  • March 2013: North faces of Großglockner and Eiskögele with David Lama
  • April 2013: Beyond Good and Evil on the north face of the Aiguille des Pélerins with David Lama
  • January 2015: Chiaro di Luna on the west face of Aguja Saint-Exupery

First winter ascents (selection)

  • December 2010: Northwest pillar of the Hahnenkamm Tower (1500 m, 36 pitches, 1 bivouac) with David Lama
  • February 2012: North face of Loška Stena (route Lama-Ortner , 1300 m, 49 hours, 2 bivouacs) with David Lama
  • December 2012: North face of the Laserz (route Spindrift , 600 m) with David Lama
  • January 2013: North face of the high window (route who wants to can , 320 m) with Andreas Bstieler
  • January 2013: Northwest face of the Keilspitze (route Taurin , 660 m, 12 pitches, 6:30 hours) with Mathias Wurzer
  • January 2013: Umbaltal waterfall (150 m) with Andreas Bstieler
  • January 2013: Großbachfall (230 m, Free Solo)
  • March 2013: Northeast face of the Sagwand ( Schiefer Riss route , 1000 m, 1 bivouac) with David Lama and Hansjörg Auer

Free solo inspections (selection)

  • March 2012: Hochstadel - north-west edge (1200 m, 4 hours, winter) in the Lienz Dolomites
  • July 2012: Furz Wurz Riss (12 m) in the Lienz Dolomites
  • January 2013: Großbachfall (230 m, winter) in the Umbaltal
  • October 2014: Route Goldfinger (7b) in the Maltatal, Carinthia
  • January 2015: Bischofsmütze north face in the Lienz Dolomites

Web links

Commons : Peter Ortner  - Collection of images, videos and audio files
personal data
SURNAME Ortner, Peter
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Luna (nickname)
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Austrian climber
DATE OF BIRTH September 10, 1983
PLACE OF BIRTH Lienz