Eiskögele (Glockner Group)
| Eiskögele | ||
|---|---|---|
 Hoher Kasten, Eiskögele and Schneewinkelkopf, seen from the Kalser Tauernhaus. |
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| height | 3423 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Carinthia , Salzburg and Tyrol , Austria | |
| Mountains | Glockner group | |
| Dominance | 0.3 km → Schneewinkelkopf | |
| Notch height | 4 m ↓ Eiskögelescharte | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 5 '59 " N , 12 ° 39' 23" E | |
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| rock | Mica schist , paragneiss | |
| First ascent | July 30, 1872 by Benedikt Lergetporer and the mountain guides Michel Groder and Josef Kerer. | |
| Normal way | from the Oberwalderhütte over the Pasterze , the Untere Ödenwinkelscharte and the northeast ridge to the summit in moderately difficult climbing | |
The Eiskögele is a 3423 m above sea level. A. high ridge elevation of the Glockner group . It is located directly on the main Alpine ridge on the border between the Austrian states of Salzburg , Carinthia and Tyrol and thus represents a three-country point. The mountain has the shape of an ice-covered horn with a huge north face , a pronounced northeast ridge and a sharp edge of snow to the west . It can be easily reached from the Oberwalderhütte base via the Pasterzeboden glacier . The mountain was first climbed on July 30, 1872 by the tourist B. Lergetporer from Schwaz and the mountain guides Michel Groder and Josef Kerer. Ludwig Kohn from Vienna undertook the first solo climb up the mountain in August 1891 when he crossed the Schneewinkelkopf .
Location and surroundings
The Eiskögele is located at the point where the western end of the Glockner ridge meets the Tauern main ridge. It is surrounded by glaciers to the north, east and south. In the north lies the Ödenwinklkees , which extends to the foot of the Eiskögele north face, in the east the Schneewinkel extends over the nutrient area of the Pasterze , Austria's largest glacier, up to a height of 3420 meters to just below the summit. In the south lies the Laperwitzkees , which reaches up to the summit. Neighboring mountains are in the course of the northeast ridge , separated by the Untere Ödenwinkelscharte at an altitude of 3160 meters, the 3261 meter high Ödenwinkelschartenkopf and in the further course of the Johannisberg at 3453 meters. In the course of the west facing Ödenwinkel wall with its strongly jagged towers and the Hohe Schneid lies the Hohe Kasten . The western flank of the Eiskogel falls down into the Dorfer Tal , the northern extension of the Kalser Tal . The nearest significant settlements are the East Tyrolean Ködnitz near Kals am Großglockner , 11 kilometers south as the crow flies , and Kaprun in Salzburg is a good 20 km to the north in Pinzgau .
Bases and tours
It can be assumed that the first climbers in 1872 had conquered another mountain on their tour. Due to poor orientation and the still imprecise map of the Alpine Club at the time , they thought they were on the 3189 meter high box , which is just under a kilometer to the west. The Eiskögele can only be reached on an alpine tour with appropriate equipment and glacier experience. The normal route , recognized as such since 1884, leads from the Oberwalderhütte , located at 2972 meters above sea level, in a north-westerly, then westerly direction over the crevasse Pasterze to the Obere Pasterzenboden and then to the Untere Ödenwinkelscharte. From there you can reach the summit via the northeast ridge. The route requires climbing skills in the UIAA II difficulty level with an ice slope of 40 °. The difference in altitude between the notch and the summit is 256 meters and the walking time, according to literature, is 3½ hours from the hut. Since the mid-1920s, very challenging climbing routes , some of them combined (rock / ice), with key points in UIAA grade V and snow fields inclined up to 60 °, have led through the almost 500 meter high Eiskögele north face .
Literature and map
- Willi End : Alpine Club Guide Glockner Group , Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1266-8
- Eduard Richter : The development of the Eastern Alps, III. Volume published by the German and Austrian Alpine Club, Berlin 1894
- Alpine Club map 1: 25,000, sheet 40, Glockner group
Individual evidence
- ↑ Eduard Richter: The development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume, Berlin 1894, p. 637
- ↑ Eduard Richter: The development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume, Berlin 1894, p. 191
- ↑ Willi End: Alpenvereinsführer Glocknergruppe , Munich 2003, p. 329 ff., Margin no. 1164 ff.