Johannisberg (Hohe Tauern)
| Johannisberg | ||
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_2.jpg) Johannisberg from the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe seen from |
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| height | 3453 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Carinthia and Salzburg , Austria | |
| Mountains | Glockner Group , Hohe Tauern | |
| Dominance | 1.65 km → Schneewinkelkopf | |
| Notch height | 293 m ↓ Lower Ödenwinkelscharte | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 6 '34 " N , 12 ° 40' 22" E | |
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| rock | Mica schist , paragneiss | |
| First ascent | August 28, 1859 (first certified ascent) | |
.jpg) The Johannisberg as seen from Eiskögele (southwest) |
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.png) Surroundings of the Großglockner with Johannisberg |
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The Johannisberg , formerly Keeserkopf and Herzoghut called, is a 3,453 meter high mountain in the Glockner Group in the Middle Tauern main ridge , a mountain range in the central Austrian Alps . The mountain lies exactly on the border between the Austrian federal states of Salzburg and Carinthia. It received its current name in honor of Archduke Johann of Austria by the Regensburg botanist David Heinrich Hoppe in 1832, on the occasion of the failed attempt to penetrate further into the area than the Riffltor ( 3,094 m). Seen from the east, the Johannisberg has a firn-covered cathedral shape, its west side consists of a mighty, 450-meter-high and 50 ° inclined west wall . To the northwest and southwest it sends long, pronounced ridges. Due to its easy accessibility, the mountain is a popular destination for hikers and climbers .
Ascent history
The first attempt to climb the Johannesberg fell in 1832, when Archduke Johann stayed in Heiligenblut and tried unsuccessfully to cross the Pasterze , Austria's largest glacier , the Riffltor ( 3,094 m), northeast just below the Johannisberg. A first attempt to conquer the mountain, perhaps successful, took place on September 11, 1844. Anton von Ruthner reported that a forester, a curat, a tax collector and a gentleman of unknown class left the Johannishütte (near today's Hofmannshütte ) at 5:45 am , and the company had the most beautiful, serene sky on its journey, judged it to the left of the Lower Burgstall and reached the foot of the Johannisberg to the right side of the same, where you can see it on the eastern, sharply rising edge at 10 a. mounted. Ruthner quoted from the Glockner book that was destroyed in a fire . The names of the participants are not recorded, but the group is by Georg Bäuerle in Heiligenblut out to have been. However, at that time, ascents were also considered successful if they did not lead all the way to the summit. This ascent was questioned as early as 1864 because the summit could not be reached that year due to wide snow gaps . The first certified ascent with a summit contact took place on August 28, 1859. Anton von Ruthner climbed with P. Kronegger (called Plattl ) from Heiligenblut and Josef Schweighofer (called Röderer ) from Fusch over the southeast ridge to the summit.
Location and surroundings
The Johannisberg lies northwest above the so-called Pasterzenboden , a kind of glacier plateau that forms the Pasterze's nutrient area and extends up to a height of 3450 meters. To the west of the mountain lies the upper area of the Ödenwinklkees . Neighboring mountains along the southwest ridge are the 3261 meter high Ödenwinkelschartenkopf and, separated by the Untere Ödenwinkelscharte (3160 m), the Eiskögele with 3426 meters. Along the ridge to the northwest, separated by the Obere Ödenwinkelscharte , at an altitude of 3228 meters, lies the 3338 meter Hohe Riffl . About 19 kilometers as the crow flies north is Salzburg's Kaprun im Pinzgau , and just 13 km south in the East Tyrolean Kalser Tal , Kals am Großglockner .
Bases and routes
The path of the group around Anton von Ruthner in 1859 led from Winkl near Heiligenblut over the Pasterze up to the Untere Ödenwinkelscharte and then over the southeast ridge to the summit. From Ruthner's report: The edge of the Pasterze crashes into terrible walls against the Oedenwinkelkees [...]. They also had to struggle with fresh snow and crevasses, so that the summit was only reached after seven hours. The way back took them a good two hours later to the then still existing Johannishütte, a stone shelter, today we would say bivouac box , the construction of which was commissioned by Archduke Johann in 1835 after his failure on the Pasterze. Today's normal route leads from the Oberwalder Hut, built in 1910, at an altitude of 2972 meters, over the Oberen Pasterzenboden and the southeast ridge along a firn edge to the summit. The path can only be taken as an alpine tour with appropriate equipment and experience. According to the literature, the walking time is around 3 hours. Combined ice-rock routes also lead over the other ridges and flanks, with some difficult climbing in UIAA grades I to III and an ice incline of up to 50 °.
Literature and map
- Willi End : Alpine Club Guide Glockner Group , Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1266-8
- Eduard Richter : The development of the Eastern Alps, III. Volume published by the German and Austrian Alpine Club, Berlin 1894
- Alpine Club map 1: 25,000, sheet 40, Glockner group
Individual evidence
- ↑ Eduard Richter: The development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume, Berlin 1894. p. 192 ff
- ^ Anton von Ruthner: Mountain and Glacier Travel in the Austrian High Alps , Vienna 1864, p. 157 u. 193
- ↑ Willi End: Alpine Club Guide Glockner Group , Munich 2003, p. 360 ff., Margin no. 1330 ff.
