Hochstadel
| Hochstadel | ||
|---|---|---|
 View of the ruins of Hohenburg (near Oberdrauburg ) |
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| height | 2681 m above sea level A. | |
| location | East Tyrol and Carinthia , Austria | |
| Mountains | Lienz Dolomites , Gailtal Alps | |
| Dominance | 2.38 km → Kleine Keilspitze | |
| Notch height | 334 m ↓ Baumgartentörl | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 45 '37 " N , 12 ° 51' 25" E | |
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| rock | Main dolomite | |
| Age of the rock | Norium | |
| Normal way | Rudnigweg from the east (not difficult) | |
| particularities | largest rock face in Austria (north face) | |
 Hochstadel and Grubenspitz from the Kreuzeck-Höhenweg |
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The Hochstadel is a 2681 m above sea level. A. high mountain in the Lienz Dolomites on the border between the Austrian states of Tyrol and Carinthia . Due to its imposing appearance, the mountain is often referred to as the "King of the Oberdrautal". The approximately 1,300 meter high north face forms the highest rock face in Austria and is one of the largest in the Eastern Alps .
Location and surroundings
The Hochstadel rises a good 2000 meters above the Oberdrautal at the level of the Kärntner Tor and marks the eastern end of the Lienz Dolomites. The mighty north face of the mountain falls up to 1300 meters into the Frauenbachtal, in the south and south-east the valley of the Pirkner Bach forms part of the frame. The summit ridge divides in the east towards the Drautal and forms several cirques , while it continues in a westerly direction over the Baumgartentörl ( 2347 m ) to the central part of the mountain group. On the east side of the Hochstadel are the summits Freiung ( 2409 m ), Rudnigkofel ( 2283 m ) and Rosengarten ( 2202 m ). Another secondary summit is the Schneeklammkopf ( 2642 m ) immediately southwest of the summit. The closest bases are the Hochstadelhaus ( 1780 m ) and the Kalserhütte ( 1800 m ) on the Unholdenalm on the eastern slope of the mountain.
Geology and geomorphology
The imposing north side of the Hochstadels is made up of the Noric main dolomite , which, due to the tectonics , is more thick here than in the rest of the Lienz Dolomites. South of the summit ridge rocks dominate the so-called Jauken episode before. These include above all plate dolomites from the Ladinium and the Carnic Cardita layers. In the area of the Pirkner Bach, marbled layers of the Kössen series also appear.
Morphologically, the Hochstadel shows a certain asymmetry. While the north and north-west flanks drop steeply and ruggedly into the valley and form one of the largest north faces in the Eastern Alps and the largest rock face in Austria, the south and east sides are comparatively gentle. Dominating Schrofenhänge and Kare ( Zabratkar , Garnitzenkar , Badstüblkar ), the tree line is relief caused significantly higher than on the north side.
Ascent
Normal routes
Valley locations for an ascent are Lavant , Nikolsdorf and Oberdrauburg . The easiest ascent is from the east via the Rudnigweg through the Garnitzenkar and then via the east ridge. The two huts on the Unholdenalm serve as a starting point . These can be reached from Unterpirkach ( 636 m ) or Nikolsdorf ( 641 m ) in 3 to 3½ hours each. The also marked ascent over the southwest ridge has a few easy climbing spots and requires surefootedness and a head for heights.
Climbing routes
The Hochstadel north face is very popular with climbers and offers routes between the III. and VI. Level of difficulty . An ascent particularly requires physical condition and a sense of direction in rocky terrain. Since you have to start in the valley, the total walking time is at least 10 hours.
- North Face ( III ) - classic route
- North-west pillar (north-west edge) ( IV ): First ascent by G. Hecht and R. Szalay in 1926, free solo winter ascent by Peter Ortner in 2012
- Erich-Vanis -Gedenkweg ( VI + ): First ascent by Hannes Gottschlich and Herbert Nowy 2005
Literature and maps
- Walter Mair: East Tyrol South. Lienz - Drautal - Villgraten - Lesachtal. Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2012, pp. 48–49, ISBN 978-3-7633-4132-0 .
- Freytag & Berndt Vienna , hiking map 1: 50,000, WK 182, Lienzer Dolomiten - Lesachtal - Villgratner Berge , ISBN 978-3-85084-782-7 .
- Kompass Innsbruck , hiking map 1: 50,000, Lienzer Dolomiten - Lesachtal - Karnischer Höhenweg , ISBN 978-3-85026-458-7 .
Web links
Individual evidence
- ^ Reinout Willem van Bemmelen & Johan E. Meulenkamp: Contributions to the geology of the Drauzug (Carinthia, Austria). The Lienz Dolomites and their geodynamic significance for the Eastern Alps In: Yearbook of the Federal Geological Institute, Volume 108. Vienna 1965, pp. 213–268. ISSN 0016-7800 [1] (PDF; 6.46 MB), accessed April 27, 2016
- ^ Hochstadel website. ÖTK , accessed on April 28, 2016 .
- ↑ Hochstadel-Nordwestkane Winter Ascent Free Solo. Peter Ortner , accessed April 28, 2016 .
- ↑ Hochstadel-Nordwestpfeiler at Bergstieg.com. Bergstieg.com, accessed April 28, 2016 .
- ↑ Erich-Vanis-Gedenkweg at Bergstieg.com. Bergstieg.com, accessed April 28, 2016 .