Kurumdy of Spades
| Kurumdy of Spades | ||
|---|---|---|
| height | 6614 m | |
| location |
Osh Region ( Kyrgyzstan ), Mountain Badakhshan ( Tajikistan ), People's Republic of China |
|
| Mountains | Transalai Mountains ( Pamir ) | |
| Dominance | 46.6 km → Kyzylagyn | |
| Notch height | 2334 m ↓ Kyzyl-Art-Pass ( 4280 m ) | |
| Coordinates | 39 ° 27 ′ 21 ″ N , 73 ° 34 ′ 0 ″ E | |
|
||
| First ascent | 1932 | |
The Kurumdy Peak ( Russian Курумды ; also Gora Kurumdy ) is a mountain in the Transalai Mountains , Pamir on the border between Kyrgyzstan , Tajikistan and the People's Republic of China .
location
The 6614 m high glaciated mountain is located in the eastern part of the mountain range of the Transalai Mountains in the Pamir . The Kurumdy Peak is located 22 km east of the Kyzyl Art Pass . Since the border was moved in 2011, it has been the three-country summit of Tajikistan , Kyrgyzstan and the People's Republic of China . On the northern flank of Pik Kurumdy is the 13.7 km long Kysylsuu glacier with a glacier area of 69.4 km². This forms the headwaters of the Kysylsuu , the upper reaches of the Kashgar River . The Kurumdy Glacier (length 17.2 km, area 60.6 km²) flows in a westerly direction along the southern flank . This lies in the catchment area of the Markansu , a right tributary of the Kysylsuu.
Minor peaks
2.2 km west of Pik Kurumdy is the double summit Kurumdy West (south: 6558 m , north: 6554 m ). The northern point of the double summit was first reached during the first crossing in 2015. About 4 km west of Pik Kurumdy is another secondary peak, Pik Chorku , which is also often referred to as Kurumdy West ( 6283 m ).
Seen from the north, the Zarya Vostoka 6349 m ( Pik Sarja Wostoka ) , located east of the ridge, is the most prominent secondary peak, which was the three-country peak until 2011.
Ascent history
The first ascent was made in 2001 by Michael Mihajlov and Vitaliy Akimov. The ascent and descent took place over a striking north ridge, which from 5500 m has a fragile rock ridge (difficulty UIAA IV).
The first crossing (east-west, 15 days) took place in summer 2015 by the Austrians Markus Gschwendt and Katharina Pfnaisl. This was also the second ascent of the main summit ( 6614 m , on August 5, 2015). Several 6000ers were exceeded and at least two 6000ers were first climbed. The ascent took place over a north flank east of the east summit ( 6384 m , 6259 m ). The descent was via the west summit ( 6554 m , 6283 m ) and a north-western summit ( 5440 m ) back to the base camp ( 3770 m ).
In the literature, the ascent of Pik Kurumdy in 1932 from the south by a group of mountaineers led by E. Timashev is incorrectly listed several times. According to the historian Jozef Hala, this reached the point 6154 m on the south ridge of Kurumdy West. The entry in the list of Gippenreiter and Shataev also points to the western summit.
Web links
- Gora Kurumdy, Tajikistan on Peakbagger.com (English)
- Kurumdy @ summitpost.org
- Kurumdy peak photo at summitpost.org
- "6613". A virgin summit on Kurumdy peak at mountain.ru
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b Tajikistan cedes land to China. BBC, January 13, 2011, accessed January 30, 2016 .
- ↑ a b Article Pik Kurumdy in the Great Soviet Encyclopedia (BSE) , 3rd edition 1969–1978 (Russian)
- ↑ American Alpine Journal, 2016, page 280 (English)
- ↑ Summit list M. Gschwendt ( Memento of the original from November 23, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.
- ↑ a b Yevgeniy Gippenreiter, Vladimir Shataev: Six and Seventhousanders of the Tien Shan and the Pamirs (PDF 4.6 MB) Alpine Journal, 1996, 122-130.
