Schleswig-Holstein traditional costumes
Today in Schleswig-Holstein , traditional costumes are mainly cultivated by traditional costume associations and folk dance groups that are organized in the regional costume and folk dance association.
history
Interest in traditional costumes awoke in Schleswig-Holstein as in other regions of Germany in the late 19th century. In the middle of the 19th century, the Danish painter Frederik Christian Lund still captured numerous Schleswig costumes on lithographs . Later it was the Rendsburg photographer Wilhelm Dreesen who photographed traditional costumes in various regions of Schleswig-Holstein, although by then they had largely disappeared from the streets.
Many of the traditional costume clubs that exist today were founded at the beginning of the 20th century. In the 1960s, folk dancing was out of fashion and many clubs disbanded, but since the 1980s there have been more and more start-ups.
Many groups of traditional costumes are based on the clothes that were worn in the late 18th century or in the 19th century. Some can fall back on preserved original pieces, others have to improvise based on images or traditions or take traditional costumes from other regions. In Schleswig-Holstein there are also traditional costume clubs that wear traditional costumes from Mecklenburg or East Prussia . In general, there seem to be more authentic women's costumes than men's costumes today.
Design of the costumes
Today, traditional costumes are often associated with the sometimes very elaborate and expensive festive costumes and, more rarely, the equally valuable but simpler Sunday costumes or the clothes that were worn every day to work. Since the Sunday costume was also worn to church, it is black in some regions, while the everyday costume could be more colorful or earth-colored. Fabrics and processing also differ. While richly embroidered silk fabrics were used for the Sunday costume, everyday clothing was much more robust. While clothing of course continued to develop and fashion trends back then, the traditional costumes worn today are often historicizing and do not change much.
The women's costume often consists of a skirt and an apron, over which a bodice or a short jacket is worn. In many cases, the skirt is striped vertically and made of a woolen fabric called both walls . At the lower end it can be secured against being pushed off by a sewn-on cord or a hem tape. A shawl with or without a fringe, which can be monochrome or multicolored, is inserted into the neckline. A bonnet or cap and silver jewelry are often worn for this. The men's costumes are often adapted to the women's costumes or go back to the clothing of certain professional groups at the same time.
Dithmarschen
The first illustration of the Dithmarsch women's costume is a painting from 1552. It consists of a dark overgarment with a colored insert in the front and corresponding sleeve ends. The robe is held together with a belt, which is closed with a fibula and hanging from the handkerchief, pouch and courtyard strip. The courtyard strip with its sewn-on rosettes reveals something about the family's land ownership. Another characteristic of the Dithmarsch women's costume is the kagel , a two-tone, hood-shaped headgear for women. The number of silver or gold-plated buttons sewn onto the kagel shows how many children she has. A filigree chain is worn with the costume .
The tsake , a short sword that is a symbol of the free peasant republic, is worn with the male Dithmarsch costume .
North Friesland
North Frisian March
A special feature of the costume that was worn in the North Frisian March was the black everyday hood, which was replaced by the brocade hood on festive days. Among them was the - except for widows - on the edge with a top decorated Mosch worn. A white cloth was worn over the hood, called the Schiedeck . The men wore either a felt hat or Ackermann's pointed hat , which was made of white cotton fabric embroidered with a colored pattern.
The Ostenfeld costume has been handed down since the middle of the 18th century, and original parts are still there today. It was worn until around 1900. While the Sunday costume for women is black, the everyday costume is very colorful. It is decorated with silver buttons and brooches that show the wealth of the march farmers.
Amrum and Föhr
The Amrumer costume has much the Föhringer costume matched, the original costume is not worn since the beginning of the 19th century.
The Föhringer costume worn today refers to the festive costume that was worn in the middle of the 19th century and is made entirely of dark fabrics. In addition, a headscarf is worn, which is embroidered with a floral border and elaborately tied. Married women wear a red cap under the headscarf, which is embroidered with black pearls. The rich filigree silver jewelry called Knooper is worn in front of the chest and has an amulet in the middle, which is decorated with a cross, heart and anchor as symbols for faith, love and hope. The Sunday costume dispenses with the silver jewelry and the white batiste apron with hole embroidery, instead of which a dark apron is worn.
The costume is usually inherited, but is still made today. Today, besides traditional costume events, the costume is still worn for important festivals, such as weddings and confirmations. A man's costume has not been handed down.
The Carl-Haeberlin-Friesenmuseum in Wyk auf Föhr provides a well-founded overview of the traditional costumes on the island of Föhr .
Sylt
The Sylt costume worn today goes back to the festive costume, which can be seen for the first time on a picture from 1579. The upper part called Kaartel (pronunciation: Korchtel) is very elaborately designed. The "broket Kaartel" (colored doublet) is mainly used; there are also ruar (red) and gul (golden) kartels. Children and girls wore red costumes, and confirmed girls and women wore a conical cap called a hüf , which was and is elaborately fixed in the wearer's hair.
For a long time, the Sylt costume was made up of a simplified version that was based on old illustrations. In addition, a blue costume was invented in the 1920s, the red stripes of which were intended to remind of the lost red costume. Only in 1974 was a preserved copy of the original Sylt costume found in an attic in Tinnum.
In the local history museum of the Söl'ring Foriining, other traditional costumes are on display, some of which were worn every day and some of them by women depending on the age group or marital status.
fishing
The Angeliter costumes go back to Trauchten from the middle of the 19th century. The colors of the clothes are red and green according to the colors of the fishing peninsula. The women's costume consists of a black velvet hood, a silk shawl and a woolen dress. The skirt has a black velvet stripe and is curled in the back. The club sleeves , which are held in a pleated frill above the elbow, are typical of the Angeliter women's costume.
The men's costume consists of a white peasant shirt and knee breeches. Typical features include a stand-up collar, a small button placket with an embroidered monogram and ruffled sleeves with a wedge. A black calico scarf is worn under the shirt collar.
Probstei
Today's Probsteier costume refers to the festive costume that was worn around 1800. The brocade vests of the men and the bodices of the women are accordingly richly embroidered. The women's skirts and bodices are dark in color. The bodices are decorated with silver plaques and have a characteristic bright, richly embroidered stripe around the waist.
Hohenwestedt
In Hohenwestedt was blue print which is then dyed with Indigo manufactured, applied to the fabric in the pattern by means of modeling. These fabrics also found their way into traditional costumes: In modern Hohenwestedter costume, the bodices are made from blue printed fabrics.
Elbmarschen
An example of the traditional costume that was worn in the Wilstermarsch at the end of the 18th century is in the Altonaer Museum in Hamburg. It consists of a dark skirt and a dark jacket. A light apron and a white shawl are worn for this. The breastplate, which is tucked into the front of the jacket, is decorated with elaborate silver embroidery, which, like the valuable fabrics, shows the prosperity of the march farmers. Another costume is the farmer's festival costume with a red jacket and dark trousers or a dark blue skirt, as it was worn around 1840 in Uetersen and the surrounding area.
National costume and folk dance association
In 1982, the established working group costumes in Schleswig-Holstein Heimatbund the Landestrachten- and Dance Association . In 2006, 84 traditional costume associations were organized in it. The board of the association consists of representatives of the member associations, the management has taken over the Schleswig-Holsteinische Heimatbund (SHHB). The association offers training events, seminars and workshops on traditional costumes and dances and organizes traditional costume festivals. He also collects information on both subjects in the library and publishes a membership magazine. There are also two folk dance groups from the Danish South Schleswig-Holstein who are affiliated with the Landsforeningen Danske Folkedansere .
literature
- Hildamarie Schwindrazheim: Folk costumes in Schleswig-Holstein. Heath in Holstein 1976
Web links
Footnotes
- ^ Local history museum of the Söl'ring Foriining, Am Kliff 6, 25980 Sylt-Keitum
- ↑ Angelner Trachtengruppe, Angeliter Trachtengruppe ( Memento of the original from April 2, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , accessed on: March 17, 2015
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