Talleitspitze
| Talleitspitze | ||
|---|---|---|
 Talleitspitze from the north |
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| height | 3406 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Tyrol , Austria | |
| Mountains | Ötztal Alps | |
| Dominance | 2.2 km → Kreuzspitze | |
| Notch height | 181 m ↓ Scharte between Eisferner and Rotkarferner | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 49 '59 " N , 10 ° 53' 12" E | |
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| Normal way | Northeast ridge over the Hörnle ( I ) | |
The Talleitspitze (formerly also Thalleitspitze ) is a 3,406 meter high mountain in the Ötztal Alps . It is located directly south of Vent in the Ventertal and forms the northeastern end point of the Kreuzkamm . Due to its location, it dominates the panorama on the way to Vent and is one of the most striking mountains in the Ventertal. In contrast to the Kreuzspitze further south-west, there is no marked trail on the Talleitspitze, so it is rarely used.
The summit was probably first climbed in 1811 by Franz Hauslab . A secured ascent took place in 1853 as part of the military survey.
Location and surroundings
As the north-eastern end point of the Kreuzkamm, at which the Spiegelache flowing from the south and the Rofenache coming from the southwest near Vent, the Talleitspitze forms a prominent point in the area. Adjacent to the mountain to the south-west is only the Kreuzspitze with a height of 3455 meters in the course of the curved southwest ridge . To the southwest below the Talleitgipfels the Eisferner glacier extends up to an altitude of about 3300 meters. The east face of the tip falls in a slope of 50 to 55 ° schrofig down into Niedertal , the West side for Rofental pronounced significantly rocky.
Ascent history
Franz Senn wrote in 1869 that the Talleitspitze was probably already climbed in 1811 by the then Imperial and Royal Ensign, later Feldzeugmeister Freiherr von Hauslab . In any case, the first documented ascent of the peak took place in 1853 as part of the cadastral survey . In the protocol of that time there is an entry that one goes from Vent over the "Spiegler Bridge" and climbs up the slope. The valley in 3 hours. reached, in ¾ hours above, half an hour to climb the rocky peak . Between August 27 and September 14, 1848, the Schlagintweit brothers climbed to the top. A surveyor Hofmann and the mountain guide Benedict Klotz from Vent carried out a third ascent in 1861.
Climbs
The normal route leads from Vent to the summit in 5 hours. First you climb on the marked path to the Hörnle ( 2406 m above sea level ), a small protrusion northeast of the summit. A narrow path and steep grass slopes lead to the wide ground northeast of the summit. Now it goes over blockwork to the left, past a conspicuous slab tower (P. 3100), behind it to the right onto the northeast ridge. The broad summit ( UIAA I ) is reached via this long, very broken ridge . Alternatively, the last part of the ascent can also be done over the rugged north-northeast ridge.
A transition from the Kreuzspitze to the Talleitspitze is also possible in four hours. The rock is brittle and there are climbing difficulties of III. Degrees to cope with.
Literature and map
- Walter Klier : Alpine Club Guide Ötztal Alps. Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2006, ISBN 3-7633-1123-8
- Alpine club map sheet 30/1, 1: 25,000, Ötztal Alps, Gurgl. ISBN 3-928777-38-6
