Tilicho Peak
| Tilicho Peak | ||
|---|---|---|
 Tilicho Peak |
||
| height | 7134 m | |
| location | Manang District , Myagdi ( Nepal ) | |
| Mountains | Annapurna Himal ( Himalaya ) | |
| Dominance | 9.67 km → Annapurna I | |
| Notch height | 734 m ↓ (6400 m) | |
| Coordinates | 28 ° 40 '57 " N , 83 ° 48' 44" E | |
|
||
| First ascent | by Emanuel Schmutz on October 10, 1978 | |
| Normal way | North face spur and further over the direct north flank | |
The Tilicho Peak is a mountain in the Annapurna Himal in Nepal part of the Himalayas .
It is located north of Annapurna I and is part of the Grande Barrière , a mountain ridge with the Nilgiris in the west and the Roc Noir in the east. Its glaciers feed Lake Tilicho , one of the highest lakes in the world. The base camp is at approx. 4900 m . It can be reached from Jomsom via the Mesokantu Pass ( 5100 m ) or from Manang through the Khangsar Valley . The Tilicho Peak can be climbed via two high camps ( 5800 m and 6200 m ).
Ascent history
The Tilicho was first climbed in 1978 as part of a French expedition. On October 10, 1978 Emanuel Schmutz was the only expedition member to reach the summit. The ascent route led from the upper Marsyangdi river valley over the northwest shoulder to the summit.
A second ascent of Tilicho took place in 1979 as part of a Japanese expedition. On the morning of April 26th, Takashi Araki, Haruo Yamamoto and Sherpa Mingma Tenzing reached the summit. In the afternoon, Yutaka Oe and Sherpa Nawang Yonde climbed the summit. The ascent led from Lake Tilicho over the north ridge to the summit.
In 1980 a Swiss expedition managed the third ascent of Tilicho. Martin Braun and Walter Renner climbed the summit on October 30th. The following day they were followed by Werner Hein, Hans-Ruedi Zurfluh, Giovanni Kappenberger and Sirdar Krishna Rai Tulung. The ascent led from Lake Tilicho via the junction of the north and north-east ridge to the summit.
Web links
- Tilicho, Nepal on Peakbagger.com (English)
- Expedition report Tilicho Peak Expedition at Expeditionsbergstieg.com
- Tilicho Peak at summitpost.org