Annapurna

The title of this article is ambiguous. Further meanings are listed under Annapurna (disambiguation) .

Annapurna
Annapurna (south wall). The apparently highest point is the northeast summit , to the left of it the middle summit and the main summit.
height	8091  m
location	Districts Kaski , Myagdi ( Nepal )
Mountains	Annapurna Himal ( Himalaya )
Dominance	33.62 km →  Dhaulagiri
Notch height	2984 m
Coordinates	28 ° 35 ′ 45 "  N , 83 ° 49 ′ 12"  E Coordinates: 28 ° 35 ′ 45 "  N , 83 ° 49 ′ 12"  E
First ascent	June 3, 1950 by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal
Normal way	North face
Northwest view of Annapurna: on the left the main summit, next to it the west shoulder, in the middle of the picture the Fang

The Annapurna ( Nepali : अन्नपूर्ण Annapurna , formerly Morshiadi ) is an eight-thousanders in the Himalayas in Nepal . At 8091  m , Annapurna is the tenth highest mountain on earth.

Annapurna is the least frequently climbed eight-thousander and one of the most dangerous. By March 2012, only 190 climbers had reached the summit, 61 climbers were killed.

Surname

Annapurna is a double word from Sanskrit (from anna "food" and pūrṇa "filled; full of"). The name is another name for the goddess Parvati ("the mountain daughter") - in various mythologies also identical with the goddesses Durga ("the inaccessible") and Kali ("the black one"). Annapurna is "the nourishing goddess" or "the goddess of abundance". The name is also in the German one feminine .

location

The Annapurna is the main peak of the Annapurna Himal and is also called Annapurna I to distinguish it from neighboring mountains . The whole mountain range extends in a west-east direction and consists of several independent mountains (Annapurna I, Annapurna II , Annapurna III and others).

Annapurna I is located at the western end of the mountain range, which bends south there and ends in Annapurna South . To the east of the main summit, another ridge branches off to the south, which finally rises to the 6993  m high Machapucharé . The south wall of Annapurna I and the ridges to Annapurna South and Machapucharé frame a secluded mountain basin, the so-called Annapurna Sanctuary . There is the base camp , the so-called Annapurna Base Camp (ABC, around 4200  m ). On the way there is the Machapuchare Base Camp (MBC, around 4000  m ).

Topography and secondary peaks

Aerial view of the Annapurna massif

The Annapurna I is an elongated ridge that extends from east to west. The peaks Glacier Dome (Tarke Kang) ( 7193  m ), Roc Noir (Khangsar Kang) ( 7485  m ), Annapurna I Northeast ( 8010  m ), Annapurna I Mitte ( 8051  m ) and the main summit Annapurna I ( 8091  m ) lie on this ridge m ).

West of the main summit is the west shoulder and the Annapurna Fang (Varahar Shikar / Baraha Shikar / Bharha Chuli) ( 7647  m ).

South of the Fang is the independent Annapurna South. East of the Roc Noir is the Gangapurna, also an independent mountain. At Roc Noir, the Grande Barrière branches to the north as well as the ridge with the Tent Peak ( 5945  m ) to the south, which divides the sanctuary.

The north ridge of Annapurna I, which begins at the main summit, divides its north side into a north-east and a north-west face.

Ascents

The Annapurna base camp, behind it the Machapucharé

On June 3, 1950, the Annapurna I was first climbed by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal as part of a French expedition. The original destination was Dhaulagiri , but because of the easier access to the foot of the mountain, the French finally turned to Annapurna. This was the first successful ascent of an eight-thousander ever.

The first ascent of the south face was made by the British Don Whillans and Dougal Haston on May 27, 1970. Another route in the south face was attempted in 1992 by Pierre Béghin and Jean-Christophe Lafaille . This route was completed with Ueli Steck's first solo ascent of the south face in 2013. However, Steck lacks evidence for this ascent. Steck climbed and descended the south face in just 28 hours. For this he was awarded the Piolet d'Or . In March 2017, a month before his death, Steck said that his 2013 ascent of Annapurna was not a success in his eyes because he had taken so much risk that he only survived thanks to a lot of luck.

On October 15, 1978 with Věra Komárková ( Czechoslovakia ) and Irene Miller ( USA ) two women reached the summit for the first time. They were accompanied by the Sherpas Mingma Tsering and Chewang Ringjing and were participants in the First International Women's Expedition to the Himalayas, led by Arlene Blum . They rose over the Dutch rib. Vera Watson (USA) and Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz ( United Kingdom ), the climbers of the second summit team, were buried in an avalanche on October 17th while climbing between Camps IV and V and died.

Roc Noir from the northeast, on the far right the Annapurna summit ridge

The two Swiss Erhard Loretan and Norbert Joos climbed the entire east ridge of Annapurna from the southeast in 1984. East of the tent peak, they climbed past the Glacier Dome over the Roc Noir to the east and middle summit and on to the main summit, before finally descending on the north side of the massif. They succeeded in crossing the massif and its three peaks over 8000  m .

Ludwig Greissl , Heinz Oberrauch and Udo Bönning from Germany made the first ascent of the 8051  m high central summit on October 3, 1980 .

An Austrian expedition was able to reach the secondary summit Annapurna Fang in 1980. Herrmann Neumair, Sherpa Ang Chhopal and Sepp Mayerl reached the highest unclimbed peak in Nepal on May 17th.

The mountain carries a high risk due to the extreme danger of avalanches : there is one death for less than three successful ascents. Famous mountaineers such as Ian Clough († May 1970), Pierre Béghin († October 11, 1992), Anatoli Bukrejew († December 25, 1997), Christian Kuntner († May 18, 2005) and Iñaki Ochoa de Olza († May 23 2008) died there.

Web links

Commons : Annapurna  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Wiktionary: Annapurna I  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

• Representation of the Annapurna (German)

literature

• Arlene Blum : Annapurna. The first women's expedition to one of the highest peaks on earth. Pietsch, Stuttgart 1982, ISBN 3-87943-906-0 .
• Chris Bonington: Annapurna South Face. Huber, Frauenfeld / Stuttgart 1971, ISBN 3-7193-0008-0 (first ascent over the south face).
• Gustav Harder, Werner Müller-Esterl: Annapurna I. The forgotten eight-thousander. Nymphenburger, Munich 1981, ISBN 3-485-01646-2 (first German ascent).
• Maurice Herzog: Annapurna. First eight-thousander. Ullstein, Vienna 1952, DNB 451985567 .
• Reinhold Messner : Annapurna. 50 years of expeditions to the death zone. BLV, Munich 2000, ISBN 3-405-15769-2 .

Individual evidence

1. ↑ See picture at alpinist.com
2. ↑ Ueli Steck on the Annapurna: Lonely peak. Retrieved August 7, 2015 . 
3. ^ Klaus Mylius, Sanskrit – German / German – Sanskrit Dictionary, Wiesbaden 2005, ISBN 3-447-05143-4
4. ^ Günter Oskar Dyhrenfurth: To the third pole. The eight-thousanders on earth. Munich 1952, p. 157.
5. ↑ Pointdexter, Joseph: Between heaven and earth. The 50 highest peaks. Könemann, Cologne 1999, ISBN 3-8290-3561-6 , p. 49
6. ↑ Tom Frost: Annapurna South Face . In: American Alpine Journal 1971, pp. 229-233.
7. ↑ Report on the ascent on Ueli Steck's homepage ( memento from October 19, 2013 in the Internet Archive )
8. ↑ Inconsistencies in Steck's Annapurna Solo . from: bergstieg.com.Retrieved March 31, 2014.
9. ↑ Dominik Osswald: What happened that night? Ueli Steck's ascent of Annapurna over the south face is the alpine achievement of the century. There is only one problem: there is no evidence. Das Magazin N ° 10, Tamedia , Zurich March 7, 2015, pp. 12–19 (PDF file)
10. ↑ sueddeutsche.de
11. ↑ tagesanzeiger.ch
12. ↑ Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz, 1942-4978. In: publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved March 3, 2018 . 
13. ↑ Arlene Blum: Annapurna , Stuttgart 1982.
14. ↑ American Alpine Journal 1985, p. 285.
15. ↑ Günter Seyfferth: First ascent of the central summit ( 8051  m ) via the ramp in the northern flank below the eastern summit by a German expedition led by Ludwig Greissl (pdf; 0.2 MB).
16. ↑ American Alpine Journal 1981, p. 264.
17. ↑ Richard Sale, John Cleare: On Top Of The World . 1st edition. BLV Verlagsgesellschaft mbH, Munich 2001, ISBN 3-405-16039-1 , p. 37, 205 .